Andalucia Day 34 Garganta verde

During the night the rain continues and the morning brings cloud so low I can't even see the castle from the terrace. We retreat back to bed to consult the weather forecast which is actually much more optimistic than reality. Towards ten there's a glimpse of blue enough to encourage us but then the garage door won't open and that takes up some time, then Google maps takes us to the wrong place.

We are finally in the right place and ready to start our hike at 11.30, a time at which I would be normally stopping for a picnic halfway through. The clouds are still low and a notice board warning the trail is dangerous in bad weather are a little unnerving, but the forecast is for sun after all. We stop at the Mirador and read the information about the vultures, for which the "green canyon" is famous and of which there is no sign. After another 10 minutes Andrea is just commenting on the fact there are no vultures when on a pinnacle just 20 metres away we see one.

The bird is just sitting there observing the low cloud as well, perhaps waiting for it to clear and provide the upward currents it uses for planing around to spot its prey. It preens itself, turns around to look at us and decides we are of no interest and then continues its watch. After watching mesmerized and taking some photos we move on, but it is still sitting there when 10 minutes further down along the trail we look up to the pinnacle. Just around the next corner we almost bump into a female wild goat with her offspring vertically perched above her. It would have been worth coming here just for these two encounters.

We continue on down, the path is well traced but we are careful because there are steep drops beyond the vegetation. At one point the steps are carved out of the rock. There's nobody else around. We reach the stream at the bottom. More warning notices because the last stretch which is just 250 metres is along the bed of the stream. We have arrived.

Cueva del Eremita is immense.

The rock is a pinkish colour with stalactites and stalagmites in every shade from dark green to olive to pale apricot.

Just along the stream bed there are two vertical cliffs. Absolutely spectacular! Some sun is making it through the clouds and the colours change accordingly.

We start the trek upwards which is surprisingly undemanding, perhaps we needed some uphill after all the walking on the flat. We meet just 4 other couples. Garganta verde is in a protected area and so we had to get permission to go, we did this via email. 

The sun is now shining and by the time we get to the Mirador for a very late picnic the vultures are circling above us. Fantastic. 

Time to go to Zahara for a coffee, before going home for some cooking and washing and to plan tomorrow.

Kilometres by car. 75

Kilometres on foot: 7