Andalucia Day 20 El Puerto de Santa María

Today's morning objective is to visit the Castillo de San Marcos free. No easy task  because the castle is private, owned by the Caballero company which bought it in 1962 and restored it. Even when paying the 10 euros for a tour of the castle and wine-tasting visiting times are limited and booking is required but we just so happen to be here the first Tuesday in the month when the guided tour of the castle is free (not including the wine-tasting) but once again you have to book by email and await confirmation. We have duly booked but no confirmation has arrived.

In theory the visit should be at 11.30 so first we go to visit Plaza de Toros, very different from the one in Baeza, with more decorative ironwork.

At the castle a notice says that today visits are free but fully booked and a security guard is turning people away and making sure they don't even get a glimpse inside the walls. We are amazed to find we are on the official list and have a look at the Palacio de Aranibar in the meantime. Many of the historical buildings in El Puerto were owned by rich merchants trading with the West Indies.

Time for the visit to the castle. Our guide first emphasizes that the castle is private (so appreciate the favour I'm doing to let you in for free, we do, we do). The castle was built by King Alfonso X El Sabio on the remains of an ancient mosque which in turn used some columns of a Roman temple. The inside is small but extremely beautiful, the arches of clear stone of the mosque providing a setting for the qibla wall covered in decorated leather which is spectacular.

There's also the chapel, 2 stained glass windows showing the miracles performed by Santa Maria, patio of the ablutions, a look at the roof and turrets and a glimpse of the wine cellar, a miniature castle, but undoubtedly a castle. We enjoy it very much and decide that it would have been worth 10 euros....

On the way back to the flat for lunch we buy tortillitas de camarones, a sort of small fried shrimp fritter, as an appetizer. Totally unhealthy, made to order, 1 euro, piping hot and absolutely delicious, it's a typical snack of the area.

We take it easy in the afternoon, decidedly slow, a stroll around El Puerto, along the river, a little shopping for the evening and a long stop in Café Vicente, one of those lost-in-time bars. Absolutely packed for breakfasts and lunches, at 6pm it is deserted, the waiters cleaning the tables.

A cana and a Vermouth of the house, the cold drinks go straight to my head, we loiter for ages, a delightfully slow day....

Kilometres by car: 0

Kilometres on foot: 13