Andalucia Day 10 Jaen

It gets light late and when I get up at about seven there are no other lights on at the apartment block windows. We set off early to walk up to the castle, just 250 metres difference in height. The man in the tourist office who explained the route had said, somewhat alarmed, "it's six kilometres", but in the end there are lots of shortcuts and perhaps he meant the return journey, Anyway, it takes us about 45 minutes in the fresh morning air through the pinewood and olive groves even though it's a bit of a shock to walk uphill after so many days on the level. 

The view, as predicted , is worth it and we sit in the warm morning sun to take it all in, and debate whether to wait for the opening of the castle (which doesn't open until 10 o'clock) and /or visit the Parador.

When we planned the trip we thought we might run to a night in the Jaen Parador. Paradors are state-run hotels often in spectaular historical buildings such as castles, as this one. They can cost as 'little' (considering the level of the accommodation) as 70/80 euros for a double room without breakfast in low season. Instead, time passed, we didn't book, prices rose and the use a washing machine was unromantically  a greater attraction. The cafè for the public opens at 11 but, emboldened by a Spanish couple who seem intent on doing the same thing - having a nosy round inside, we go in. Since they are state-run it seems there is a certain tollerance on people 'just looking'. The staff ignore us and them and we are able to look at the corridors, enormous lounge and dining-room. I am satisfied, for the time being....

Back down we stop at the Mercato de Abastos, a very good one with a huge range of fish and meat products in particular. We buy figs, to supplement those eaten from a tree in the Santa Catalina park coming down the hill, mangoes, and, of course, olives.
In the afternoon it's hot and we rest and plan the next few days. Towards evening we go out to the cathedral, vast as it is there's a mass with just about 50 people and a rather hot and tired priest. When we come out, the mass took just 35 minutes, the sun has gone down behind the castle and the cool wind is blowing in from the Sierra and olive groves.

Kilometres by car: zero
Kilometres on foot: 13