Matera - What to see and do free
Matera is undoubtedly one of my favourite places and definitely a city I recommend you to visit. When we first visited about 15 years ago we were not so captured by its charm, this time I spent 10 days there and could have stayed longer. Matera is enchanting. The Sassi of Matera have been a World Heritage Site since 1993 but especially over the last couple of decades the "Sassi" have been painstakingly and tastefully cleaned, rebuilt and restored and Matera is once again at its best. While preparing for our trip in October 2021 I had the impression that I would have to pay to see most of the interesting sites. As you know if you read this blog, we travel a lot, and we are lucky to be able to do so, but we aren't millionaires so our travels are always with an eye to keeping our expenses down......
Here are some great things to see and do in Matera which are free or nearly free. Nevertheless, some sites are open thanks to volunteers, you may find it useful to have a few 1 euro coins handy for church illumination, to leave as an offer, to buy a bottle of water from the many vending machines
1. Walk around Matera: free
Obvious, but you really can spend hours doing this, exploring, up and down the narrow streets, and every corner you turn surprises you with a new view, curiosity or something interesting and free to visit, there are many works of art around the Sassi, and small craft bottegas to have a look at. A word of warning, you can walk several kilometres up and down without even realising - comfortable shoes are a must, and if you've ever had a dodgy knee, remember to pack your arnica cream and knee supports - they may come in useful. The historical centre at the top is also a pleasant place for a stroll on the flat with fine palaces, churches and buildings.
2. Go hiking in the Gravina on path 406: free
Cross the suspension bridge and visit the rock churches in the Parco della Murgia Materana. The trail starts near san Pietro church and is clearly visible and signposted. Again a word of warning - you need hiking shoes or trainers with a good sole if you want to enjoy this walk. Yes, you can do it without, but you will spend most of your time looking where you put your feet or worrying about your toes or falling down if you go with ordinary shoes or open toe sandals. Secondly, you should only go if you are normally fit and used to walking. Thirdly, be aware that it gets seriously hot in the gravina and especially coming up at the end of your walk. Take plenty of water. We went in October and it was really hot coming back up, there was a nice breeze walking around Matera, but not down in the Gravina. The suspension bridge is not terrifying unless you are seriously afraid of heights, it's not very high above the stream. I go mountain walking but not rock climbing because I'm too afraid and it was no problem.
Once you get up the other side you can visit the rock churches. In autumn 2021 many had been restored and have been closed by iron bars so you can peek inside and take photos but without actually going in, such as Chiesa madonna delle tre porte
and Chiesa Sant'Agnese. If you take plenty to drink and a picnic, there are other churches to visit which are signposted from the top, such as Chiesa Rupestre 'Madonna delle Croci (o della Croce)', on path 408. The sign says it takes 20 minutes but it's longer than that. Both the inside (which you can see through the bars)
and the view of Matera from there make it well worth the hike. You can find more information here.
3. Go hiking in the Gravina 2: free
Go down the same path as above but you will see a trail which leads off to the left, paraellel with the stream. Follow the trail, which veers left and cross the stream. From here you can go up to Chiesa Rupestre Madonna degli Angeli, where you can go in.
4. Interesting churches to visit free in Matera - San Giovanni Battista
The church of San Giovanni Battista is one of the most beautiful and best preserved examples of the Apulian Romanesque style present in Matera, and the one I fell in love with, perhaps because when researching Matera I found out a lot about the Chiese Rupestri and didn't imagine that Matera could have other beautiful churches.
The church was completed in 1233, and is accessed through what was originally the side facade. There's a finely decorated portal and arose window and a polychrome stone statue of St. John the Baptist. But what is most striking about the church is its typically medieval internal architecture: it has a Latin cross shape and 3 naves divided by elaborately decorated quadrilobate pillars.
Free Entry.
5. Interesting churches to visit free in Matera - The Cathedral of Matera
In the heart of the historic center, the Cathedral of Matera is dedicated to the patron saints of the city: Madonna della Bruna and Sant’Eustachio. Its Romanesque-Apulian style is still visible especially outside the church with the wheel of fortune rose window, the entrance portals decorated with intertwined plant motifs, while inside the columns and capitels and the fresco of the Last Judgment and that of the Madonna della Bruna, by Rinaldo da Taranto and dating back to 1270.
One euro Entry fee
6. Interesting churches to visit free in Matera - Chiesa di San Pietro e Paolo al Caveoso
The church of San Pietro e Paolo al Caveoso is built right above the gravina, and from the square outside there's a good view of the gravina, the suspension bridge and of course, Matera itself. The façade has Baroque elements while inside, the wooden ceiling decorated by local artists, the carved wooden main altar of the eighteenth century, with a sixteenth-century polyptych while the side chapels on the left side host interesting frescoes, baptismal font and ceramic statues.
Free Entry - but invest in one euro for the illumination - it's worth it!
7. Interesting churches to visit free in Matera - Santa Maria de Armenis
Quite large, totally hewn into the rock and connected to what must have been a private house. Aldo tells us the story behind the wooden devices used to make a print on the bread before being placed into the oven, the fact that the bread was turned over onto itself to make more space in the oven and reduce costs and all about the cooking spoons and their role in courtship and marriage. It brings the places to life, Aldo's father was a skilled carver of these tools. One of the most interesting stops thanks to his descriptions, better than any guided tour because it gives you a glimpse of life in the Sassi. Thanks to Aldo!
Free Entry thanks to volunteers, you can leave an offer if you want
8. Interesting churches to visit free in Matera - Sant'Agostino
The church itself has been rebuilt but with an obligatory "generous offer" of 2€ it's possible to visit the cripta of San Giuliano. We decide to pay and it's well worth it. There's a fine fresco of the Trinità and the face of the Madonna in the fresco of Madonna con bambino che gioca e con San Leonardo are well-conserved. There's also an acquasantiera with carved snakes and fish.
Free entry to the church, offer for the chiesa rupestre
9. Other interesting churches to visit free in Matera
- Chiesa di San Francesco D’Assisi
In one of the main squares in Matera, the façade is a good example of Baroque architecture while the interior hosts paintings by Neapolitan artists. We liked the gilted wooden altar of Saint Anthony of Padua, the wood pulpit and in amidst the Baroque the Gothic 15th century Polyptych by Lazzaro Bastiani above the altar at the back of the church.
Free Entry
- Chiesa di San Biagio
Tiny church next to the Museo dello scavo with a facade of interesting statues outside and two little bell-towers. Free Entry
- Sant'Antonio Abate
Tiny rock church in the Sasso Barisano with a simple rosone, not much is left of the frescoes but the building is still interesting. Free Entry thanks to volunteers from a local folk group
- Chiesa Rupestre di San Vito dei Lombardi Free Entry
- Chiesa Santo spirito in the area below the main square with its enormous columns etched out of the rock, dates back to the ninth century and gives access to Sasso Barisano, a few frescoes including a thirteenth-century one depicting Santa Sofia. Free Entry
- Refettorio di Santa Chiara Free Entry
- Chiesa di Materdomini Free Entry
10. Walk up to the Castle gardens: free
Walk up to have a look around the castle, a little neglected for centuries since its original owner, Conte Talamone was killed in the cathedral for imposing too many taxes on his citizens. The castle was never finished and seems a little forlorn and ignored even nowadays.
11. Visit Salvador Dali's works: free
Piazza Vittorio Veneto - Elephant
Piazza San Franceso d'Assisi - Dancing Piano
Via Madonna delle Virtu - Melting Watch
Other works are housed in an exhibition in the rock complex of Madonna delle Virtù and S. Nicola dei Greci, but you have to pay to go in. As an alternative, if you're interested in Dali, when you get back home take the free virtual tour of the Figueres Dalì Museum here
12. Visit the Gravina dell'Ofra complex: free
A long walk or short drive out of Matera where you can explore at your leisure. Make sure you follow the usual precautions - hiking shoes, plenty of water and not during the heat. Following the road along the top of the gravina there are directions on the left towards the "Bat Cave". More information here.
13. Have a day out on the beach.
All that walking can be tiring. Have a day off and go to the beach. It's about three-quarters of an hour through beautiful countryside to go to Lido di Metaponto. Go onto the beach and keep walking right to reach the free beaches. We were there at the beginning of October and it was absolutely warm enough for a day on the beach. On the way back stop to see the temple of Hera which is free to enter and wander around. More info here
14. Have a day trip.
Altamura, Gravina, Montescaglioso, Irsina and Miglionico are all a short drive on quiet roads and the scenery is incredible too...
15. Matera by night
Unmissable and unforgettable!
PS the best site for information for visiting Matera is the official apt site.
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