Basilicata in October - Matera Day 3 and Altamura

We set off before nine for another look around Matera. Our first stop this morning is in the large square with Salvatore Dalí's piano and the church of Saint Francis, which is open. We like the gilted wooden altar of Saint Anthony of Padua, the charming wood pulpit and in amidst the Baroque the 15th century Polyptych on wood of Gothic elegance by Lazzaro Bastiani above the altar at the back of the church. We continue on towards the castle, a little neglected for centuries since its original owner, Conte Talamone was killed in the cathedral for imposing too many taxes on his citizens. The castle was never finished and seems a little forlorn and ignored even nowadays.

Our destination this morning is the third church of the 3-church ticket, but this is actually two in one because access to the rock church of San Giovanni in Monterrone is through the tiny chapel of Santa Maria di Idris. These churches are excavated deep inside the rock and have some fine frescoes.

We've walked another 8 kilometres without even realising it, together with 16 the day, before so we decide to go back to the apartment for lunch.

A bit tired of walking, in the afternoon we drive to Altamura, famous especially for its bread although it actually has a fine cathedral too. The bare stone has been covered by gilt and marble, similar to the cathedral in Matera but in this case of pinkish and greenish hues. 

We admire the 15th century crib, the carved ambone and pulpit and a fine painting of the conversion of Saint Paul but as is often the case the most impressive part of the church is the facade with its carved scenes from the life of Jesus. 

We are tempted to pay to visit the Matronei but after driving uselessly around Altamura, which was already busy at 3.30 instead of almost deserted until past 5 like most towns in the area, we had to park in a blue space which means we had to pay before and the visit would take too long so we settle for a stroll around the historical centre.

Many of the churches of Altamura are being restored, the facade of San Nicola dei Greci has some fine carved scenes from the Bible, similar to the cathedral but also with scenes from the Old Testament. The narrow streets of the historical centre which are also a sort of dead-end courtyard are called Claustri, there are many, some nice, such as Claustro Tricarico or Claustro Cifarelli, others nothing special.

It's time to put more money on the car but we first stop by a Forno to buy DOP Altamura bread 

and focaccia and then go to see if the Archaeological museum is open. It is, and is free, so we add an extra hour to the car parking. The streets around seem to be gridlocked with traffic and I start to be a little anxious about getting back in time to eat something before my lesson on Skype at 8.

There are some interesting panels in the museum and an explanation of flint making but the modern art dotted around the museum is distracting and incongruous especially the neon signs oddly placed in the "cave".

We get back to the car at 6.20 by which time I'm extremely pessimistic. Instead Google maps gets us out through the traffic surprisingly quickly and I get home in time to chew(!) the focaccia before my lesson. Altamura was a little too chaotic for my tastes.