Naples in October - Day 5

On Thursday we decide to go to look for some urban art - murals, but that unexpectedly involves us in other interesting discoveries. The enormous mural of San Gennaro is outside the church of San Giorgio which is open thanks to the volunteers of the Touring Club. 

We are very lucky because we are immediately taken under the wing of a very nice lady who explains the highlights of the church - the 4th/5th century abside still in brick, 

the paintings and the stories behind them, something about the history of the church and, best of all the hidden fresco of Saint George and the dragon hidden behind the later painting of the same scene.

We go to have a look at other murals, in particular the one by Banksy and then decide to go as far as another church kept open by the Touring Club - the San Severino and Sossio church which is a triumph of baroque, especially the ceiling of the sacristy.

It's almost getting late by the time we get to Pignasecca where we buy more excellent fish: Sciabola, and some of those tasty baked filled rolls and some healthy green beans for lunch. we also indulge in another typical dessert: Rum babà

In the afternoon we set off on foot towards the Pedamentina, that is the steps leading up to the Vomero neighborhood. We're used to going uphill but we still feel a bit hot and tired by the time we get to the top. The steps aren't through a particularly inspiring environment, grubby, rubbishy, unkempt, but we are soon at the top by the Certosa di San Martino where a man is singing typical Neapolitan songs to a girl whilst the girl's friend is filming them, apparently for the girl's boyfriend. As often happens when travelling, one observes snippets of lives and wonders at the story behind it.

After admiring the view from the Certosa with the Castle behind we continue on through the Vomero neighborhood towards Villa Floridiana. This area is very different from the other areas of Naples we have seen so far. Cleaner, tidier, but also more like the suburbs of any large city.

There's a good view of Lungomare Caracciolo below and the sea but otherwise the park of the Villa is a disappointment. Most is fenced and all has been left to grow without any restrictions except for keeping the paths free of undergrowth. It resembles a wood more than a garden, and a wood that needs cutting back.

There are dark clouds but fortunately none of the threatened rain so we sit a while before finding a coffee and than walking down the steps of Via Petraio towards the Chiaia area. This is the only area of Naples I've seen which I could vaguely describe as being pretty. 

It's also clean and there are local people walking up and down, much better than the Pedamentina. We continue on down, then a little way along Via Vittorio Emanuele then more steps down to Quartieri Spagnoli and from there to the apartment..... 14 kilometres today again.