Naples in October - Day 4

On Wednesday for various reasons we get off to a late start and stop by some of the churches on our list but this time they are closed for restoration work or you have to pay to go in, not something we're bothered about doing after all we've seen so far, and also considering that wherever you stroll in Naples there's something interesting to see for free.

So we are soon at the Duomo which we had just a quick look in on Saturday afternoon when we arrived. This time we take it slowly and beyond the grandiose baroque effect we find some beautiful things to see. First of all the beautiful Santa Maria del Principio mosaics by Lello da Orvieto and the frescoes in the Santa Restituta chapel;

then we willingly pay the two euros each to visit the 4th century Baptistery, one of the oldest in Europe with some splendid blue and gold mosaics, especially the lion. Further along in a side chapel there are more frescoes and then the four organ panels painted by Vasari now hung on the wall in the left transept. The Crypt dedicated to San Gennaro is surprisingly nice, white carved stone gives a light feeling plus there is a baroque floor and 12 sculptures of faces by the contemporary artist Leperino (1979). But the highlight of the visit is the Cappella capece minutolo.... splendid even if closed but we manage to look in through the gates. There's a fine 14th century Tryptych to the right and an elaborately beautiful monumental tomb of Cardinal Enrico Minutolo, from the early fifteenth century. Some of the carvings are painted in tempera and the final effect is poetic.

By the time we come out it's getting on for lunchtime so we go to our "usual" Pescheria Azzurra in the Pignasecca market and buy some anchovies, absolutely fresh and perfect for 2€! Fried for lunch with a baked roll we got at the bakery on the way back and the last of the fennel, they are delicious.

After lunch we walk down to Castel Nuovo via the Sant'Anna ai Lombardi in Monteoliveto church but once again only a part of the church can be seen for free. Castel Nuovo with its dark turrets and monumental white portal is impressive and we get a quick look at the inner courtyard too. 

Our last stop is to see the Romantic Garden of Palazzo Reale, also free to visit. There's hardly anyone, just like in Piazza Plebiscito in front, empty spaces don't seem to attract Neapolitans.....

On the way back we give in and buy a hefty chunk of fresh tuna to cook with tomatoes and olives for dinner. The fish here is spectacular, I must admit!