Puglia in October - Gravina in Puglia

The weather forecast is pessimistic but we go to Gravina anyway. The traffic and streets are unnervingly similar to Altamura so when I see a free blue line space under the trees of the Villa Comunale I slide into it with relief. It's about ten o'clock so 2.45€ gets me parking until 15.31. 

Gravina is wet and busy this Saturday morning in October and the narrow streets of the historical centre aren't pedestrian but we make our way to the main square and the cathedral. It's a little squared up and less decorated than others in the area but the usual clean warm light stone is nice.Inside a small group of singers is preparing for a wedding. Apparently the original church was destroyed by an earthquake and there are just a few traces left. The 14th century Regina Ceoli bas-relief catches the eye.

Back outside the weather is surprisingly cool and blustery but we have another quick walk around and see the outside of the Chiesa del Purgatorio 

before our appointment at the Museo Fondazione Santomasi at 11 o'clock. The Ettore Pomarici Santomasi’s Foundation museum was a gift to the town by a nobleman after his death in 1917. Nowadays the visit includes the Royal Apartments of the family, left exactly as they were at his death, 

a small archaeological museum, an exhibition of 17th/19th century clothes, a numismatic collection and some paintings, all of which are interesting but the real attraction of the visit are the frescoes in the Chiesa Rupestre di San Vito recreated in the basement. The frescoes were discovered in the 1950s and, amazingly, were exhibited all over Europe after their restoration. The Cristo Pantocratore is splendid! The 3€ entrance fee is well spent.

When we come out we just have time to look inside the Chiesa di San Francesco before it  closes and after we buy focaccia from a bakery just next to it and then retreat to the car to eat. It's good, reasonably oily and not too hard to chew. Three large pieces and some sweet bread with chocolate cost just 4.50€.

There are still a few people arriving although from the way they shiver and pull up hoods they might have been in the mountains.

We get out of the car for another walk and to look for coffee. Were a little uncertain about which way to go but, as always seems to happen, a man on his way home realises and stops to give us directions, and we find the acqueduct/ bridge. 

Originally a bridge, it became an aqueduct to connect the two fountains which still exist at either end. The bridge takes us to the Botromagno Archaeological area where there is also the Madonna della Stella crypt, closed, the Padre Eterno Chiesa rupestre which one can peer inside, and a fine view back over Gravina with dark clouds looming behind.

Back across the bridge the best view of the bridge and the Sassi behind is from the walkway which leads up on the right. A really splendid view....

We walk around a little more, also towards San Michele chiesa rupestre which is closed and then go back to the car. Time for a little mundane shopping, although we find our favourite Termiti di Bitetto olives at the Mongolfiera Shopping centre, and then back home for a rest. We escaped the rain today as well!