Basilicata in October - Matera - Metaponto Lido

The weather may change later in the week so we decide to go to the seaside. Lido di Metaponto is a 45 minute drive from where we are staying although not quite as straight down as our host implies, the first part of the road is quite winding but the landscape of pale fields and just the occasional building is striking.

We don't expect much from Lido di Metaponto but the beach on this early October day is surprisingly pleasant. Just a couple of Lidos are still open, a handful of people, blue sea and golden sand.

We walk and walk until the few buildings behind the beach fizzle out to be replaced by nature. It's really very pleasant, no-one around, warm sun, a fresh breeze.

We find good shade from a tree almost on the beach for our picnic and then stroll back to one of the few Lidos open for coffee.

Metaponto is actually not famous for its beach but for its archaeology so we stop to look at the temple of Hera which is free to enter and wander around.

Montescaglioso is on the way back so we stop for a look. The town is visible from all around, perched on the top of its hill and so we are curious. It's easy to park and the historical centre is quite small, there's a nice little church with some frescoes but the monastery is closed because it's Monday afternoon.

Anyway we don't want to be too late back. There's just time for supper and a shower and then we are driving to Matera to park in the multi-storey car park, which is handy for the centre and costs one euro per hour. From there we make our way towards the cathedral, but can't resist stopping to look at the splendid view of the Sassi di Matera lit up like a nativity scene in front of the viewpoint of the cathedral.

The cathedral itself in the warm lamplight illuminating the stone is spectacular. Inside a concert is awaiting us at eight o'clock. Six singers and the music of Gesualdo, prince of the Venosa castle we visited on Saturday.

Well, awaiting us is poetic licence since things rarely start on time and in fact we have time to admire the inside of the cathedral - the icon of Madonna della Bruna, venerated by the citizens of Matera, the painted wood ceiling, the elaborate gilt stuccos, the altar and chapels. The music is elevating, angels singing, meditative, impossible to anticipate and when it finishes we hardly realise. It's a special start to our stay in Matera.