Basilicata in October - Venosa

Last breakfast in the castle and we are finally allowed to pay. On the way down from Bovino we stop in the Madonna di Valleverde sanctuary to have a look at the fourteenth century Madonna con bambino statue. It's easy driving around here, wide empty roads with rolling ochre and black fields, just the occasional tree. We stop to take some photos and I take it so easy we nearly arrive too late to visit the church in Venosa which closes at 12 o'clock. The complex of the Holy Trinity is interesting with traces of Roman, Lombard and Norman architecture. The complex consists of the ancient church (or old church), and the unfinished church (or new church), the construction of which was never completed. The old church is very attractive, unadorned stone except for some rather nice frescoes interspersed with Roman remains and mosaics.

The entrance to the 'new' church is via the archaeological centre which for 2.50 euros gives access also to the Roman remains and the archaeological museum in Venosa castle and is open all day. Building of the new church was started by Benedictine monks in the mid 12th century but when their monastery was closed the structure was handed over to the Cavalieri di Malta who left it as it was, "incompiuta" that is uncompleted.

After looking at this part we park the car near the entrance of the archaeological site where it should be safe and walk to the centre of Venosa both for the archaeological museum and castle and in search of something for lunch.

The latter is more of a challenge. There are lots of cafès in the square in front of the castle but they are uninspiring or closed so we go into a salumeria for a couple of panini and eat them on a bench near the castle. Not my usual choice but what I fancied today .... although the bread is quite chewy.

The archaeological museum in the castle is a nice surprise, both because it's in the castle

and because it's included in the ticket price. There isn't time to do it full justice but there are some interesting multimedia contents.

It's over an hour's drive on to Matera. The roads are empty and we make good time to our accommodation Le Dimore dell'ofra. It seems ok, surrounded by olive trees and a peaceful place although I'm depressed by the lack of washing machine and there's a slight smell outside.......

We settle in, do some shopping and start to plan our ten days in Matera.