Alghero, Sardinia - 3 days in May

Three days in Alghero in May

Our journey by Grimaldi lines ferry from Livorno to Olbia is uneventful, in the sense that the threatened rough sea is not so rough; a slight movement can be felt once out of the port of Livorno for about an hour but then it settles down and the sun comes out. Lunch is also uneventful. I convince Andrea to go to the Self-service which turns out to be less interesting than it looked last year when we didn’t go. We spend 30 euros for a portion of lasagne, a sort of arancina, cheese, bread, coperto and roast potatoes. Is it worth it? If you have read many of these posts you will know I’m not keen on spending a lot of money to eat nothing much. This wasn’t bad but the portions were small and the ratio of euros to calories was low.

The ferry departs on time and arrives half an hour late, but we do get a male singer singing some old Italian favourites so sitting with the sun on my legs stretched out in the Eliseo lounge watching the coast of northern Sardinia glide by as we near Olbia I decide it is probably the most relaxing way of travelling.

But we aren’t on the road until about half past seven. The times given by Google Maps for reaching Alghero from Olbia are calculated for empty roads not respecting the speed limit. At 7.30pm the dual carriageway is certainly quiet and we screech to a halt in Alghero at exactly 9pm, rather tired.

The apartment in Alghero is pleasant: new, in the centre and with reserved parking under the apartment block for which I’m very grateful. I found it on Booking.com and Airbnb, and then subsequently on subito.it so got a much discounted rate. We drink a herb tea and eat some of Andrea’s cake and go to bed.

Day 1

The next morning, first we go to the weekly market where we get excellent fruit and vegetables – green beans, courgettes (not as good as the ones I grow,  but…), very good fennels and Camone tomatoes. At a stall of a local producer we get seasoned sheep cheese and a very large hunk of sheep ricotta. Once that is all safely back at the apartment we go on foot to the Conad just around the corner for some basics. By that time we decide on an early lunch so it’s two o’clock before we are out and about in Alghero. The weather is excellent – sunny but breezy, shorts and T-shirt weather in the sun, and a scarf and light fleece in the shade or where it’s windy. We head for the historical centre of Alghero.

This is not our first visit. We stayed a few nights in Alghero nearly twenty years ago on a camping trip, at the end of May there was nobody around. Last year we spent three nights in Sassari and during one of those days we spent a morning in Alghero. For personal and other reasons, that day was not a great success and so we are back in Alghero to give it another go. We walk down towards the port and along the wide and long seafront behind the harbour down as far as Maria Pia beach and beyond.

Sardinia doesn’t really ‘do’ sea fronts or promenades so one advantage of Alghero is undoubtedly this long and relaxing area for strolling. The beach itself (first week of May) is not at its best  - there are great piles of smelly seaweed (waiting to be removed?) at the beginning of the beach towards the harbour and the beach itself hasn’t been cleaned from seaweed and driftwood and other bits and pieces brought in by the sea. Very few beach clubs are open yet but there are already a few people lying on the beach and walking in or next to the water. Not the most beautiful beach I’ve seen in Sardnia, although the sand is soft and fine  and I imagine it’ll look better as they get the beach ready for the summer season. The view of the historical centre of Alghero and a schooner in the background is definitely a plus.

I have half an idea of a second coffee but Andrea (thanks to the coffee machine in the apartment) isn’t keen, so we stroll back and along the bastioni around the historical centre. It’s very pleasant and, like last time, reminds me a lot of Gallipoli. Coming around to the south of the bastioni there’s the first ‘wow’ moment of the holiday – enormous expanses of pink flowers coating the walls and gardens of the sea front beyond and almost tumbling down into the sea. 

Eventually we stop in some shade and probably snooze a few minutes before walking back. I haven’t decided if it’s hot (in the sun and sheltered from the wind) or decidedly cold (in the shade where it’s windy) and since our stop seemed to be the latter we find a bench sheltered from the wind but in the sun to warm up a little before going back to the apartment.

In the evening the sunset from the bastioni and the red sky from the port win bonus points for Alghero.

Day 2

On our second day in Alghero we go to Bosa. Read about our day here.

Day 3

On our third day in Alghero we dedicate the morning to strolling the historical centre and the Bastioni and walk as far as Spiaggia del Trono, which is filled with seawood. Alghero has a number of museums, including one about coral, none of which I can tell you about because we were happy to spend our time strolling since the weather was so nice.

In the afternoon we drive to Fertilia and park at Punta Negra. From here we walk a little way along the road  - there’s a pedestrian and cycle path parallel to the road, to get round the Punta Negra Hotel and then take the path on the left (the only one after the fenced hotel area which takes us through the mediterranean vegetation and towards the sea: stunningly intense blue and a strong breeze. 

The path goes along the coast as such paths do….up down and round about, a little scratchy undergrowth on our bare legs but no cliffs or risk of getting lost, until eventually, after about an hour’s walk, we come out at Le Bombarde beach. Where there are a lot of people. A lot, well, it’s not August and I like empty beaches so this may well be an exaggeration but let’s say wherever you sit you’ll be just a few metres from somebody, so we don’t, which is a pity because the sun is hot and the sea is beautiful.

With the excuse of looking for some shade we continue along a little but when we come out onto the road to see several cars parked near a very small Cala we decided we might as well go home as obviously these beaches, being so near Alghero, (there’s a also a bus service) are quite busy already in May with locals and tourists. By the time we get back to the car we’ve walked for 15 kilometres (including the morning walk) and are hot and in need of food, drink and shower.

After all three, in the evening, we go for our final sunset of our three days in Alghero. Tomorrow we go to Santa Teresa di Gallura.