Puglia - Daunia in September - Trani and Bitonto

Trani is probably my favourite small city or large town, not only stupendously beautiful and white-stone clean but also on the sea. We have visited several times - for a day trip in April and September and for a longer stay of a week last year. But it's good to be back, it's not the sort of place I could possibly get tired of, at least out of season. So the morning is dedicated to visiting the cathedral, one of my favourite places, inside too. 

There's a wedding later on and the flower arrangements with the background of unadorned stone make it even more beautiful. 

Afterwards we wander along the harbour, through the backstreets and as far as the Villa Comunale or park. In between we have a second breakfast. Breakfast at a nearby bar is included with B&B Germinario so we decide to use our voucher for mid-morning elevenses, imagining it will be quieter. It's half past ten but Caffè Biancaneve is packed. We soon understand why. It isn't just a bar caffetteria because there's the laboratorio round the back. We have an excellent freshly made Cornetto each, which is delicious.

For lunch we get takeaway from Carpe Diem, a place we've tried before and liked. There's nothing special on the menu on this Monday in September but the melanzane alla parmigiana are as good as ever.

A pause ensues because I have a translation to do and it's 3.30 pm before we are in the car heading for Bitonto. It's a forty minute drive. Too long for the late afternoon but we missed out on seeing the inside of the cathedral and the crypt on our previous visit and want to make up for that now. Parking is as difficult as ever but we are inside the cathedral by about half past four and are pleased to see that the crypt is open. It was worth the effort. I like crypts and this is a nice one, especially the stone carvings of the capitelli, each different, lions with entwined tails, wild boar with hunters....

Upstairs, the main church is even more beautiful, Romanico pugliese, unadorned light coloured stone, a stupendous pulpit

and a glimpse of the griffon mosaic below.

It's well worth the trip, but by the time we come out and have another look around the historical centre of Bitonto

it's time to get back.....I have more work to do this evening.