Puglia - Trani

Sunday's destination is Trani and we get off to an early start because I want to be in the cathedral before guided tours disturb the peace. We scout the residential area until we find a square in the middle of blocks of flats to park free and then head to the cathedral. We visited Trani one afternoon by train during our visit to Bari in April 2017, and the tall light simple beauty of the Cathedral with the sea behind had left a desire to return and savour its atmosphere anew.

It doesn't disappoint. There are four areas to visit, the lower church which is accessed on the ground floor with a few frescoes and arches and columns which would be beautiful enough in itself, the San Nicola crypt behind with its tall columns, the San Leucio ipogeo area below which we hadn't seen when we visited before and then the upper church - the sense of sheer space and light and uplift is something special for me. 

One of the best places I've ever visited.

We take it slowly and then wander the historical centre, much has been restored and the usual clean pale stone interspersed with occasional flowers and balconies and unexpected little squares and churches make for a relaxing morning.

After mass in the cathedral we go along the port and through the centre to Carpe Diem which is open Sunday lunchtime. Here we strike lucky. In search simply of a good but cheap focaccia instead we find a full Sunday lunch on offer, lasagne, melanzane alla parmigiana, next out of the kitchen the typical local dish riso patate cozze. Impossibile to resist our favourite dishes lovingly prepared in single portions at very cheap prices. An elderly man also advises us to wait because fritto misto di pesce usually appears at some point. It's supposedly take away but there are a few comfortable and clean tables with an excellent view of the latest dishes coming out of the kitchen :)

So, two portions of lasagne, one of melanzane alla parmigiana, a double riso patate cozze, a very generous 'single' portion of fritto misto, two large glasses of dry white wine and one beer for just over 22 euros, all tasty well cooked and good quality! We are full and happy.

Back at the port we sit at the same bar as the last time we visited which still has the sofa with view for a couple of coffees, there are a lot of people around, 

very different from the end of season let me shut up shop feel in the Gargano area. Afterwards we go to the Villa Comunale, i.e. the splendid gardens right next to the sea, to relax in the cool. The gardens next to the sea are well-cared for and clean, there's even a clock with below the date written in grey pebbles which someone must change each day. After a longish rest we wander in the direction of a sort of tower that marks the entrance to the port and which can only be accessed from there. 

There are local people strolling around, the occasional tourist, all enjoying the warm balmy late September sun, just below the walls a restaurant is playing absurdly loud music of the easy listening makes you want to dance variety which wafts up onto the sunbaked tower while towards Trani harbourside the sun glitters and reflects off the calm water. It's a moment of illogical and absolute beauty and peace. Perfect.