Gargano in September 15 Siponto and Margherita di Savoia

We stop at the covered market in Manfredonia for fruit and vegetables and, of course, fish. We decide on octopus because in Puglia they are experts in preparing it, beating it in salt water for hours to ensure it isn't the slightest bit chewy. In fact, in one corner of the market there are some motorized tanks automatically doing just that.

Our second stop is at Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Siponto. We are lucky because the archaeological area and hence access to the basilica is usually open only from 12.30 but some people are preparing for a wedding so we are able to sneak a look. The Basilica is an unusual shape and quite striking.

To the left of the church excavations brought to light the remains of an early Christian Basilica, with three naves and a semicircular apse and mosaic floor. Here, in 2016, the artist Edoardo Tresoldi created a  fourteen-meter high wire mesh installation that reconstructs the ancient basilica in 3D exactly above its remains, it's also called the "ghost church" which very much sums up the impression it gives, especially when arriving round the back of the actual church.

The drive from Siponto to Margherita di Savoia is through flat fields used for farming, mostly for growing vegetables, it would seem. The sea is never far way but always out of reach due to the fact the land seems to be private, including access roads to beach facilities or Lidos which are mostly closed because the season has finished, meaning that also the road to the beach is gated off.

Parking in Margherita di Savoia proves a challenge, as we imagined: our "Bella Dimora" is extremely new and nicely decorated but is in the 'main' (small) square in the town and much of the parking is blue line. Eventually we find a free space and manage the luggage in two trips. Our host's 'collaborator' (actually the mother also in this case) gives us a friendly welcome.

Our first task is to cook and eat octopus. This is definitely a success and after a quick snooze we go to explore the beach. The biggest problem is to access the beach. The various Lidos have monopolised most of the sea front and then closed down for the season boarding up and fencing off most of the sea front. This is somewhat off-putting but eventually we find a 'way in'.

The beach is very wide and the sand a little darker and coarser than in Vieste but still pleasant. The beach is pretty much empty, not surprising since the various facilities are closed and it's difficult to find a way on! There are just a couple of people in the water and we observe that the sea gets deep quite quickly, after 6 or 7 steps out they are already mid-chest. Anyway there's a cool breeze so I am not enticed to have a swim. Instead, as usual, we walk, which is very pleasant.

The centre of Margherita di Savoia offers just a few shops, bars, the usual things and a good Conad just around the corner where we stock up on staples. Back at the apartment we eat the fresh local asparagus we found earlier in the day at the market, delicious, and plan our trip to Barletta the next day.