Gargano in September 13 Pulsano abbey and hermitages

Today's objective is to walk up to the Pulsano Abbey and hermitages from the countryside above Manfredonia. I'm a little nervous about this because it looks a bit demanding both as regards the terrain and the sunny position.

Still, we have found the itinerary on Wikiloc and various blogs and manage to park the car at the start. At this point we get lucky because we meet an elderly gentleman with a bicycle and, while we are asking if it's ok to leave our car where we have, it turns out that not only does he know the route we are planning to follow but indeed he goes up and down practically every morning! He can therefore reassure me that there are no dreadful precipices and yes, that it's not completely safe because there is a risk of rockfall but let's say, he hasn't been buried yet so we have a fair chance of doing the walk safely.....

The first part is a pleasant stroll on a white dirt track in the middle of the countryside and olive groves. 

The track sort of merges into the bed of a stream and at this point one has to keep right to follow the stream but on the road above. It's warm but there's a cool breeze. At the end of the road we keep right just after the bridge and this time follow the stream bed (which is totally dry) clambering over stones and rocks with traces of a path in between. We are soon at the first "eremo" called San Giovanni carved out of the rock. It amazingly still has traces of frescoes of the Madonna on the carved portal. 

After a brief stop in the shade we carry on clambering up the valley. It isn't a walk, it's a clamber, you need to use your hands and some parts are quite steep but fortunately there are no precipices or 'don't look down' points and we proceed well. There are occasional blue spots or arrows which indicate the best route. 

Nevertheless, we get a little off the official path but there are other tracks, just before the ruins of a car which has been chucked down into the valley most probably decades ago, which take us up to a break in a fence where we can see the back of a signpost. This last part is steep and hot but there is a path at least. We discover that the signpost is part of the official route between Pulsano Abbey and the hermitage of Santa Margherita/San Leonardo so we carry on to visit that. It's an easy path and there's a metal rope to hold onto if you needs an extra sense of safety. This hermitage is bigger and on two levels. 

After, we continue back in the other direction and up to the top where we are a little confused because everywhere seems fenced off. Instead we see that there's a rudimentary gate to keep in the animals (there are some donkeys which are grazing a little way off and ignore us) which requires opening with three hooks on the side. We carefully close it again and in just a few minutes are up at the abbey. First, we go to visit another hermitage, that of San Nicola which means going down again, this time the steps are hewn into the rock. It's another fascinating place for the views, the sensation of solitude and peace. Back up at the top we visit the main part of the Abbey. It was founded in the 6th century, destroyed by Saracens and then rebuilt by San Giovanni di Matera in about the 12th century when, according to tradition, the Madonna herself indicated to him where to go to build a church. There were 24 hermitages which actually made up a community so they were linked by paths, steps cut into the stone

 and even channels in the rock to carry water,

many in places which appear inaccessible nowadays.

The abbey was abandoned in 1969, and quickly fell into disrepair with thefts and vandalism ruining its magic. Fortunately, as of 1990 a group of volunteers decided to save the Sanctuary and restoration work started on the buildings with a group of monks returning in 1997. When we arrive actually outside the abbey it's about half past eleven and there are about six or seven other people around. Silence is total. First of all we have a look in the caves on the right, one stretches in quite deep and is used for church services, it's the one most often seen in photos. Another has a crib. Then we go through the arch covered in vines to the actual church. The soft coloured stone lovingly restored, the breeze coming up from the sea so far below, the hot sun, there's a special atmosphere, even more so in the church itself with small arches either side of the altar. It's a special place, the feeling of peace is pervasive and touching, we linger a while and light a candle, it's quite simply a place I will always remember.

Back outside we wander around a little in search of somewhere appropriate for our small picnic and find a low wall in the shade at the top of the Via Crucis. It's very peaceful with the cooling breeze, after a while four people who were visiting the church when we were wander by and smile, a cat comes looking for titbits and a small dog comes and sits next to us as if happy for the company.

Eventually we decide to make a move. Going back down is hotter and requires caution, I'm not a climber so I sometimes resolve by sitting down and dangling my legs first, much to Andrea's amusement. Just before the San Giovanni hermitage, Andrea, with the help of GPS and various itineraries downloaded from the Internet, manages to identify the deviation to the Mulino (mill) hermitage. There are only some rough tracks and the steep drops are too close for comfort for me, also I'm tired after the hot scrambling, so with great relief I sit down to wait under a brave but skinny olive tree gripped to the mountain side while Andrea carries on, far more surefooted and confident and hence safer. Fortunately there's a cool breeze  and WhatsApp is working so we can keep in touch. He manages to follow the tracks which soon become steps carved into the rock and after about 15 minutes he arrives at the Mulino Hermitage where the big round stone is proof that it was used as a mill and bread was made there for the whole community. There are some large open spaces and views of other hermitages.

I'm happy to see him arrive back and we continue on down, stopping for a short rest under the enormous carruba tree where the path starts again. There are also some wild almond trees and we collect a handful of nuts. We get back to the car hot and so thirsty we down a litre and a half bottle of decidedly warm sparkling mineral water between us.

On the way home we stop to buy bread for the evening and to look at the coast just quickly ,mostly because it's uninviting - narrow beaches with cliffs behind, a few flat rocks. Back at the apartment we consume beer, lots of fruit and coffee and start to recover a little. Supper is a really excellent ricciola and by 11 minutes past ten we are both in bed. It takes me approximately 5 seconds to fall asleep. A spectacular day.