Gargano in September 12 Manfredonia and Sentiero Natura Mergoli Vignanotica

We have another glimpse of the dawn across Mattinata Bay and then get up a second time for breakfast. Our destination this morning is Manfredonia which is only about 15 minutes by car from our apartment. Parking is easy and we are soon walking along the pleasant seafront.

We had planned on visiting the castle first but it's still closed so we wander around the town and end up in the Santa Maddalena chapel which can be accessed through the town hall, which used to be a Dominican convent. Here we are most fortunate because a very kind and knowledgeable man explains the frescoes and the history of the church. There's a very beautiful fresco of Maddalena tenderly holding the body of Jesus. 

The chapel was destroyed by the Turkish raids in 1620 and was rediscovered only in 1895. Then, apparently, for many years the fresco was considered scandalous and so the chapel, behind the San Domenico church, was deconsecrated, the entrances were bricked over. Now the chapel has been restored although some of the other frescoes, in particular the genealogical tree of David with the Madonna who appears in the middle of an opening almond, symbol of purity, are in need of financing for restoration. This explanation and some information about the archaeological remains exhibited in the room make for an interesting visit. 

After, we look at the main square and the much more recent San Lorenzo cathedral and also indulge in a 'pasticciotto' whilst waiting for the Castle to open at 11 o'clock. Once it does, it's just a 10 minute visit to walk around it because the part housing the archaeological museum is closed for restoration work.

Next stop, the weekly market where we buy figs, local almonds, dried tomatoes but aren't satisfied with the fish. Also, it's only 11.30 but stallholders are already packing up and putting things away even while people are trying to look at them.

Rather dissatisfied we decide to go to a big supermarket to see if there's a decent fish counter there. Luckily, on the way, we drive right past what had so far eluded us both on the Internet and on site - a proper covered food market in Via Restituita. Finally, fish galore and at decent prices. No need for the supermarket anymore, we head for home with three different types of fish for a late lunch.

After our late lunch we go to walk along the Sentiero Natura Baia Mergoli - Vignanottica. The path starts on the main road several bends after the signs to Baia delle Zagare and the hotel because the path doesn't actually go down to the beach. Before the start of the path (in the direction of Vieste) there are a couple of places for a few cars just off the roadside and in fact we park there. Instead at the start of the path there's probably space only for about 4 cars. There are fine views of Baia delle Zagare 

and the path along the coast is very pleasant, especially now in the afternoon in the cool shade mostly. 

It takes about forty minutes to reach Vignanottica beach 

which is shingle and surrounded by towering cliffs with just a narrow strip of pebbles in front except from where the path arrives down where there's a larger triangle of pebbles occupied by two beach bars with umbrellas leaving just a fraction of free beach at the side. Fortunately our objective was only to see the beach. Yes, very nice, dramatic, but not very atmospheric and won't be on my list of favourites. The best thing is the path and the views from the path. We take it fast on the way up back from the beach, exhilarated with an ascent for a change in the now almost cool air of the late afternoon. We take the fast road too, to get home, through the tunnels, pasta with prawns, dried tomatoes and rucola selvatica for supper, we have a good appetite.