October 2020 Trani: Trani and Ruvo di Puglia

Back from Giovinazzo the evening before we got (more!) focaccia and also an excellent pizza from Carpe Diem for the modest amount of €8.50. It's a slower start on Friday. The weather forecast for the morning is excellent so we stroll down to the harbour, through Villa Comunale where we also sit and sunbathe a while and listen to the sound of the waves, meet a jay a little braver than the kingfisher 

then walk as far as the red lighthouse, back round by the cathedral and as you may have guessed into Panificio del Porto. It's a particularly beautiful and sunny morning, Trani at its best, few people around, fishermen sorting through their nets, blue and white boats bobbing, the focaccia is perfect cherry tomatoes soft yet crunchy deliciously oily, a moment of perfection.

Takeaway lunch is provided by Carpe Diem, riso patate cozze and fried fish to which I add the excellent local tomatoes. After lunch it rains a little and we rest a little and then do some quick supermarket shopping. Then back down to the harbour we go as far as the green lighthouse, lingering to watch photographers with a drone following a bride and groom and some men fishing for octopus from the rocks with a line and a chicken claw. After, we spend some time in the cathedral. 

I ponder on past and present and wonder about the future. 

Coronavirus cases have increased to over 10,000 we discover back at the flat. Suddenly the situation is no longer under control.

On Saturday morning the noise the car had been making around the front right wheel impresses itself more firmly into our consciousness, especially in view of the 500+ kilometres we plan on doing the next day. So we sit where I have just parked in Ruvo di Puglia and ponder the situation. It's Saturday, so all mechanics are closed until Monday morning but eventually someone in a Honda garage replies and comments that it's probably the brake pads, we may damage the discs, and to brake as little as possible. Since I'm hardly a fast driver and we've only done 40,000 km this seems odd to me and I also don't see how I can avoid braking if I need to brake, but I admit my ignorance on the subject.

The cathedral in Ruvo di Puglia is open, weddingless and beautiful. 

We have a look at the archaeological area below which actually isn't that fascinating and turn our attention to the actual church. Similar to several others in the area its fine clean lines of pale stone cannot fail to please. There's also an interesting 16th century Madonna and child painting and a fine statue of San Rocco by Giuseppe Sammartino. We luckily meet a man who stops to chat with us and explains a lot about the cathedral and it's history. We stroll through the rest of the historical centre of Ruvo 

to look at the view beyond the park and then, trying to brake as little as possible without actually driving into anything or anyone, we go to the wine producers Cantine Ruvo di Puglia, where they are not very helpful or very friendly but there is a special offer.

Having been told to brake as little as possible it seems foolhardy to proceed with the drive planned for the rest of the day so we head back to Trani. Only it is lunchtime and it seems a little sad to go back to the apartment to eat a picnic. Fortunately, we spot the sign for Dolmen della Chianca. The Dolmen is quite large, 

although of course nothing in comparison to the one in Antequera. It's set among olive groves with some really ancient trees with stone benches surrounding it and makes an ideal place for a picnic. Looking at the olive trees I reflect one should try to age in the same way, the trunks bear witness to suffering and time but the leaves and fruits are still exuberant and abundant.

Picnics in Puglia are much enlivened by Focaccia, which here means a sort of pizzaish base with cherry tomatoes in varying quantities, the occasional olive and Evo in single (called by me 'unto') or double ('bisunto') quantity. Delicious.

Back at the apartment I start to pack up, all the usual stuff plus the stock of wine, Conserves, friselle ecc and we phone our local Honda mechanic who is a little more reassuring about a long drive but still warns off braking.

Saturday afternoon late is our last, only for the time being I hope, walk around Trani and we actually manage to see, I think on the fourth or fifth attempt, the inside of the Ognissanti church of the Templars on the harbour. It's a minicathedral and well worth the insistence, the Templars are also in attendance. 

We say goodbye to our various favourite corners of Trani, but unfortunately Panificio del Porto shows no sign of opening for the evening. Fortunately Focaccia is never lacking in Puglia and we find that and a piece of Calzone for the next day before returning to the apartment to pack.