October 2020 Torriana: Rimini

We find parking in Rimini 5 minutes from Arco di Augusto for €2.50 for the whole day. The arch is our first sight of the centre of Rimini 

which is quiet and pleasant, some red brick, especially the palaces in Piazza Cavour 

where we are also able to take a free look inside the theatre. 

The lush environment of gilt and red velvet was expected, the relics of a Madonna hung from the ceiling in the entrance in homage to Fellini a little less so. In Piazza Tre martiri there's the octagonal small chapel to see with the larger one behind, but not so special inside, and the clock tower. 

In Piazza Cavour we like the fountain, which impressed Leonardo,

and there's the nicest fish market we've ever seen. We get as far as the bridge of Tiberius which dates back to 21 A.D. 

and used to cross the Marecchia river, the river was later deviated to avoid periodically flooding the city and now there's just a pool and what looked to be a very pleasant park area upstream and the beginning of the port with small fishing boats downstream. 

The October sunshine is pleasant and warming and we linger a while until we realize it's getting on for quarter past eleven and the Tempio Malatestiana will close at 12. Its name is appropriate, while actually a church Sigismund Malatesta had his own power and glory more in mind when he decided to rebuild the original church dedicated to Saint Francis. The side chapels are dedicated to the virtues, to children playing, 

to the signs of the zodiac, with symbols representing Sigismund in abundance, from elephants

to the entwined S and I and the stylised rose. Fortunately there was also a Saint Sigismund to keep on the same theme but including a little religion. It all makes for a fascinating visit, especially considering the fine fresco (obviously of Sigismund himself and Saint Sigismund) by Piero della Francesca and a Crucifix by Giotto. So interesting before we know it it's twelve o'clock and the custodian is ushering us out.

Theoretically it would be nice to get the picnic from the car and walk back to the park by the bridge to eat it but in practice we eat in the car, it's clean, well more or less, warm and convenient, and there is a view of the park in front.

After lunch we have a look around the outside of the castle, which is closed, and the local produce market which has a good variety of fish at reasonable prices, which we bear in mind for the future.

Across the Tiberio bridge is Borgo San Giuliano, a charming area like a small village, of fishermen's cottages painted in different colours with bright murals some of which depict scenes from Fellini's films. Most of the houses have quaint details, decorations, special touches. The Borgo is right next to the river where fishermen used to moor their boats and even now there are lots of small boats, for amateur fishing or pleasure trips. We stop to chat to a fisherman. He was born there and has fished all his life, it's interesting to hear about his experiences, the different catches, he shows us his catch of the day. Afterwards we go back to the car and drive down to the sea, it's quite near and by chance we park near the centre where there's the Grand Hotel of Rimini, some gardens and the fountain with four horses. 

We are a little tired and a little hungry. We'd expected to find a piadina to supplement the meagre picnic but surprisingly there were no piadinerias in the centre of Rimini.

The beach clubs are all closed up but access to the beach is easy. The beach is immense and beyond a low hill of sand, probably built to protect the facilities from the sea during the winter, there are quite a few people strolling along by the shore. We join them and soon notice a couple of people wading in the shallow water, just ankle deep or even less, obviously collecting something. One man has a fishing rod with a spoon (!) tied to the end and is scooping something into a net. Another is picking something up by hand from the sand and putting it into a bucket. We are surprised to discover they are collecting cockles. I could never have imagined fishing could be so easy. We watch them a while, fascinated, if only we had an extra day......but the apartment where we are staying is booked for the following day. It's time to go home....