October 2020 Torriana: San Marino

First thing on Monday morning we are at the mechanic's recommended by our host. This turns out to be a good decision. He is very friendly and helpful, the brake pads are fine (!!!), and there's no apparent reason for the noise except perhaps some stones in the undercover. Much relieved we do some shopping and have a very early lunch and, braking freely, head for San Marino.

We park in a free car park just below the start of the cable car, which is closed for three days, but we were planning on walking up anyway. It's quite a steep walk up to the centre, especially after all the weeks of strolling on the flat, but pleasant among the autumn trees.

San Marino stone is slightly darker and considerably less luminous than that of Puglia but nevertheless the final result is harmonious, clean buildings and streets, very quiet, it's about lunchtime anyway. 

Piazza della Libertà also known as Piazza del Governo has palaces on three sides and a good view on the other as well as a statue of Freedom, representing the independence of this tiny state, in the middle. We get a glimpse into the Parliament building, Palazzo Pubblico, which is officially closed and the changing of the Guard has stopped for the winter but the quiet sleepy atmosphere is pleasant. The cathedral is 19th century and quite majestic and from there we go up to Monte Titano or the castle with its three towers.

The first tower is the Torre Rocca or Guaita and is the oldest tower in Italy, dating back to around the 11th century. We don't pay to go in but follow the narrow path to the right of the entrance towards the second tower, Torre Cesta or Fratta dating back to around 1400. This section of the path is suspended above a several hundred metre sheer drop on one side and a cliff down on the other and is called Passo delle Streghe or Witches' path and is undoubtedly the most romantic and prettiest corner of San Marino especially on this autumn day with the mist arriving in great waves from the valley below.  

Torre Cesta stands at the highest point of the mountain and houses the Museum of Ancient Arms. 

From here another path, once again with lots of steep drops, often unprotected, to the left, in a few minutes takes us through the woods to the third tower called Montale, which can only be visited externally. This fraction of wood and nature at the top of the mountain is very pleasant, there are even fewer people about.

An extra cappuccino would be so nice at this point. But we resist and instead stroll back down via the Orti Borghesi park, named after its designer, Bartolomeo Borghesi, a famous numismatist and antiquarian, and stop for a rest on a stone bench warmed by the sun not far from the main square. By half past four the sun is losing strength and it's getting damp and we head downhill, stopping to get cheap petrol right on the border. 

On the way home we stop at the Convento di Santa Croce in Villa Verucchio where there's a nice cloister and a monumental cypress tree which is reputed to have been planted by Saint Francis in 1213 but is definitely 800 years old and 25 metres tall. 

There's also a small chapel where Saint Francis' cell used to be with 20th century but interesting frescoes. The main church has a magnificent fresco painted between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries by local painters but  inspired by Giotto. It's a peaceful way to end the day before going back to base to light the fire.