October 2020 Trani: Bitonto and Giovinazzo

The weather forecast for Thursday is suspicious but on the way to Bitonto we see there's a Ipercoop which should stock the olives we want to take home with us. From a Covid-19 point of view it's an unnerving visit. It's a large shopping mall but there's no temperature scanner at the entrance, lots of people, chaos with people next to each other at the till. We find our olives, plus friselle and taralli but I'm glad to get out. We try stopping at another wine producers but there's nobody there. In Bitonto parking proves difficult but I eventually find a space some way out. We are surprised by the historical centre of the town, bigger, more beautiful and better kept than we imagined. 

There's the Torre Angioina, a fine arch and old palaces, the chiesa del Purgatorio,

the cathedral, beautiful with a splendid carved pulpit and fine ceiling,

  is open, but there's a wedding going on so we only manage a glimpse. 

Fortunately there's a baker's just around the corner and more delicious focaccia ensues. For the rest of our picnic we go back to the car, there's a cool wind and rain forecast. In the meantime it's got to half past one so I drive back into the centre, where shops etc are now closed, but I still have to go round a couple of times before finding a free space. Back in the historical centre we visit the beautiful Palazzo Sylos Calò which houses the Puglia National Gallery. Entrance is free and while the works of art are not outstanding it's well worth a visit for both the paintings and the building. After another stroll through the historical centre we go back to the wine producers Tenuta Pere Rosse where I fear we disturb the wine producer's after dinner rest. Nevertheless, he is very kind and welcoming, we talk of the excellent quality of Puglia's produce as well as about wine and another six bottles find room in the Jazz. He also advises us to go to Giovinazzo, not on our list of places to see, but he tells us about the beautiful historical centre.....on the sea.....we decide to follow his advice.

As soon as we park (easily and free) we realize he was right. 

Largely and unjustly ignored compared to more well-known seaside towns in the area, Giovinazzo has one of the cleanest, lightest, most delightful historical centres I have ever seen. If this isn't one of the borghi più belli d'Italia..... and it isn't, who knows why...... 

It also has a long seafront walk from the south of the town beyond where we park right round below the walls, around the castle, cathedral and small harbour and beyond. 

There's hardly anyone around. I immediately fall in love with Giovinazzo. 

After having thoroughly explored we are back on the waterfront walk 

when something amazing happens. There, gazing intently down into the sea, perched on the edge of the walkway, is a kingfisher. We like birds and one way and another, paying attention and spending a lot of time in the woods and mountains and natural environments also when we travel we have seen a lot. But never before have we seen a kingfisher. There he is, decidedly less enamoured of the meeting than us as every time we edge cautiously forward Kingfisher retreats shyly. After a great deal of edging and retreating around the harbour, rewarded each time by a flash of brilliant green blue when he flies on, Andrea manages to get some good photos. Apart from that we stand and marvel. The unexpected. Beauty. A memorable moment. Giovinazzo and the kingfisher.