October 2020 Trani: Bisceglie

On Tuesday morning we go to an open air market, something we haven't done since we were in La Spezia in January. The market in Trani is a long long single line of stands selling clothes, shoes, accessories and household items. I buy 2 plastic tablecloths, several pairs of knickers, a non-stick stone effect oven pan and several masks. It's quite a long walk by the time we get back but Andrea's knee seems to be bearing up ok fortunately. We were expecting the market to have fruit, vegetables and fish; it didn't, but we've still have plenty of the former from Manfredonia and for lunch we decide to go to Carpe Diem where we had such a good lunch last year. Our apartment, miraculously, is a 2 minute walk from Carpe Diem so we get a takeaway of pasta al forno, oven baked potatoes because I can't resist them, a slice of salmon and potato pie and a portion of oven baked mackerel and potatoes. It's probably too much, but all delicious.

After a digestive rest we go to Bisceglie, the next town down along the coast from Trani. It's mid-afternoon so the roads are uncharacteristically traffic free and quiet and we park in a square right in the centre because it's free until 5pm.

The historical centre of Bisceglie is similar to others in the area with its pale stone buildings and makes for a pleasant stroll. 

We come out along the little harbour 

although the view from the south is a little spoilt by the 'modern' apartment buildings encroaching above the typical waterfront houses. We dive back into the old centre, there are interesting arches, doorways, 

corners facades of churches, the castle, unfortunately closed. Back down at the harbour but looking from the north shows Bisceglie at its best, the little fishing boats of the harbour, the walls in the usual light coloured local stone, the old houses piled on top and the outline of the highest part of the cathedral above it all. 

In the meantime the cathedral has opened, or perhaps not. 

The doors are open and we glimpse inside a figure kneeling in front of the altar. Never stop at first impressions, a closer look shows that instead of a devote believer it's actually a photographer operating a drone which is filming inside the cathedral. The priest keeping an eye on the whole thing says we can look but must keep out of sight of the drone. The cathedral is similar to many others in the area, simple splendour of pale stone geometry. The priest opens up the crypt for us, well out of sight of the drone. But when we come back up we are a little trapped. Both doors have been closed for light purposes, or to avoid disturbances, I'm not sure which and the drone is buzzing furiously and irritatingly up and down the main aisle. We retreat each behind one of the substantial columns but time is passing, the drone keeps buzzing up and down and our free parking will be running out. Finally the priest remembers us and opens a side door and we escape with relief. Our last task in Bisceglie is to find the typical cakes called 'sospiri'. Cakes are not one of Puglia's strong points so we are particularly curious. Google advises us to seek them in the conveniently located Bar Cattedrale on the way back to the car. Closed. Fortunately back in the square where we parked Caffè Cova has both small and large. We opt for one large.

We drive back to Trani along the road near the coast, stopping for a while at the Santa Maria della Colonna monastery on the coast, beautifully restored, but closed. For dinner we have cheese from the market in Manfredonia, and more of Puglia's excellent fruit and vegetables, oh, yes, and the sospiro, she sighs......