October 2020 Reggia di Caserta: the gardens

On Monday the weather forecast is fine so we set off on foot armed with a simple picnic to explore the Royal Park of the Reggia di Caserta and in particular the English garden. The Royal Park is laid out with a series of fountains in a long line from the Palace, stretching three kilometres, and the English garden is at the far end on the right. We are about two thirds of the way there when it starts to rain. Alas, five umbrellas of varying sizes in the car in front of the apartment and us under a large tree branch hoping for the best. So much for weather forecasts. To while away the time we put our picnic table cloth over our heads and eat our sandwiches standing up. Eventually it lessens enough to venture out from the kindly tree and we get to the English garden. The most photographed and romantic part is the Venus statue near the little lake with enormous trees and ferns 

and the Criptoportico, purposely constructed to look like a Roman ruin. The rest of the garden is interesting too, despite or especially on this rather gloomy day when the main colours are grey and green. Probably in the spring or summer the garden would be even prettier. 

Anyway, we take our time exploring, there's the area which used to be dedicated to botany experiments with enormous old greenhouses and structures for pots, another lake with a 'temple', the 'gothic chapel', a sort of bandstand, an obelisk, more 'ruins' and the beekeeping area. There are many enormous monumental trees but the botanical aspect has been lost a little because there are only a few names here and there and the far end of the garden to the right has become an out of control jungle. Nevertheless, it's a very nice place and worth the leisurely look we've been having. 

The weather has improved a little and when we leave the garden it's dry enough to sit below the spectacular Diana and Actaeon fountain, the nymphs in alarm and horrified for the wrath of Diana punishing Actaeon and his hounds watching the transformation in amazement. 

A tepid sun appears and after a longish rest on the steps we stroll back through the grounds and into Caserta city in search of a pasticceria and rizze. Soon found, and only €1.20 each. Delicious crunchy flakes of pastry with a ricotta and candied fruit filling. A silence of appreciation follows.

Back at the apartment we get ready to leave the next day and decide on a last pizza and calzone fritto, from the pizzeria which subjected us to such a long wait two evenings before because Everest down the road is closed because it's Monday. This time we go by car to get it ourselves, surprisingly easy traffic wise, and quick, by 7.30 we are munching happily.