What to see and do in Trani
WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN TRANI
1. Visit the cathedral
Trani cathedral, or the Cattedrale Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, is also known as San Nicola Pellegrino, and is one of the most important examples of Apulian Romanesque architecture. I fully agree that it is "the Queen of the Cathedrals of Puglia". It is built in Pietra di Trani - Trani stone, typical of the area and extracted from local quarries, and characterized by a very light pink, almost creamy white colour.
Trani cathedral is spectacular first of all because it is next to the sea. You can admire it on all sides because there’s the sea to the left and behind it, a large square in front of it and even the nearest building on the right is far enough from the clock tower to allow you to admire it unhindered. The whole area is clean and perfectly conserved. The occasional very discrete restaurant or hotel, the Museum, nothing to spoil it. So it's beautiful outside, but also inside – there are four different places of worship in the Cathedral itself. Going in on the ground floor you think you are visiting the cathedral, until you realise there’s a crypt with pillars at the far end,
a tinier crypt below and then when you finally go up the stairs to the left or the right you discover the magnificence of the main cathedral. Splendid and bare pietra di Trani, vertical, light. Beautiful!
Instead, going up the steps outside, you can admire the door (a copy of the original which is in the cathedral to protect it), the carvings around it and then sit on the stone bench in front, protected from the wind, to wait for the sunset.
Arrive from the cathedral, walking maybe along by the sea. It’s a working harbour so you can watch the fishing boats arrive and fishermen unloading their catches and people swarming to buy while an octopus tries to escape under the table. Then continue on round, if it’s late afternoon, local people and a few tourists but not too many, and people from Bari for an evening out, will be out for the ‘passeggiata’. Stop for a coffee or an aperitivo or a gelato and be surprised because you aren’t paying a fortune even if you are sitting right on the waterfront with a view of splendid Trani.
3. Take a book to the Villa Comunale
Carry on walking along the harbour as far as you can. You’ll see the Villa Comunale or town park on the right. If it’s in the morning you can walk straight in through the gates. The rest of the day you’ll need to turn off before, to the right, then left and go in through the side gates which are always open. Trani park is as special as the rest of Trani. If you go in through the side gates you’ll see the clock on your left. Highly technological. Somebody changes the date in stones every day.
Once you get to the main path in the middle, look left and you’ll see Trani Cathedral. Look right and you’ll see Santa Maria di Colonna Abbey in the distance and the path in the middle of the park joining the two in a perfectly straight line. The park is next to the sea so you can choose a bench and admire the waves, the gulls whirling above the fishing boats rounding the lighthouse and heading for the harbour, and also the local talent in the outside gym!
Pietra di Trani, narrow streets with unexpected flowers and ancient churches, every street will eventually take you down to the harbour or to the cathedral. If you’re lucky you might find that the Chiesa di Ognissanti or of the Templars is open. Or the Chiesa di San Martino now an Orthodox church, located 2 meters below street level with an ancient oven and traces of frescoes. Or visit the Synagogue or Palazzo delle Arti Beltrani - Pinacoteca Ivo Scaringi and its Art Exhibitions.
Stalls selling clothes, new and second-hand, shoes, household accessories, furniture, textiles, prepare yourself for a long walk. But only in case of good weather. If it rains there’s no market. Trani has a good selection of all the usual Italian high street shops from OVS to Intimissimi, plus a lot of boutiques.
7. Visit the castle
The Castello Svevo di Trani dates back to the 13th century, has been tastefully restored, provides excellent views of the cathedral and the historical centre of Trani and often hosts interesting exhibitions.
8. Walk out along the Molo as far as the Lighthouse for a different view of Trani. Sit and watch the fishermen, or sunbathe…..
9. Try a stroll in the evening in the dark when the tasteful street lighting, especially if it’s rained gives the impression, the streets are paved with gold…..
On our last evening on our last trip there was a man singing classic Italian pop songs in karaoke in the square outside our B&B. Then we wandered down to see the Cathedral and the harbour by night: beautiful.
Coming back through the historical centre we turned down some streets that were totally quiet, the clear Pietra di Trani almost glistening in the lamp light, going by the doors of an open church we looked in because the church choir was practising.... glimpses of life.
10. Take a day trip
Trani makes an ideal base for visiting the area because it is on the main railway line along the Adriatic coast of Puglia, which means that you can easily reach any/all of these towns/cities for a day trip by train.
1. Bari
2. Molfetta
3. Barletta
4. Bisceglie
5. Giovinazzo
7. Monopoli
These are the reasons I love Trani: here
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