Puglia in September 2023 Porto Cesareo Day 1

The next morning is a lot easier. We set off early, stop for me to telephone and get petrol and arrive at the apartment in Porto Cesareo at 10.15. The charming host, Giovanni, has said we can check in early. It’s a great relief to unpack and settle in. I don’t think the one night stops are any good to us anymore. It’s too tiring unless it’s an essential break on a long car journey. Much better to base somewhere and then day trip from there. 

The octopus has survived the journey and by lunch time it’s cooked and served with potatoes from Manfredonia and some cherry tomatoes from home. It turns out to be tender and delicious, there’ a beautiful view of Isola dei Conigli and the sea from the terrace, the fruit is excellent. We relax. 

In the afternoon we head out to explore Porto Cesareo. First we turn right towards the nearest beach just past Kalura beach club. It’s smaller than it seemed on Google Maps - a narrow strip of sand occupied by beach clubs and people and yes the sea may be fantastic but you can't’ really get to it much. After the kilometres of space and empty beaches in Vieste, I’m not impressed. Andrea takes a photo just of the sea, avoiding the crowded beach. 

Then, we head back towards the harbour and Porto Cesareo itself. This is a lot better than the reviews I’d read on Tripadvisor or elsewhere, a charming village along the harbour 

with Isola dei Conigli in front, the streets are clean and the harbour side restaurants are thronging with people still finishing their Sunday lunch. Plenty of space to stroll. The sun is hot and the breeze is cool. It’s deeply pleasant. We walk as far as the sandy beach in front of Hotel Paradise. Just beyond there are a few benches in the shade, some elderly men playing cards and a shaggy dog with a truncated tail trying to catch something in the scrub between the seafront and the rocks and enjoying itself immensely. And yes, it’s true that some older houses have been built nearly on the beach, but that doesn’t happen just in Puglia and even in Puglia it wouldn’t happen now. All in all Porto Cesareo is very nice.

Dark clouds are looming so we take a short cut through the centre and go back to base for a shower but by 6.10 are back on the rocks near the apartment for the sunset. There are some low clouds which hide the best of it but at least we know we’re in the right place.