Puglia in October 2023 Barletta
Every time we stay in Trani for a few days we do a day trip by train. There are many reasons why we love Trani, and I've summarised them here. One reason is that Trani is on the main train line along the Adriatic coast of Puglia making it easy to visit all the towns along the coast. The train journey from Trani to Barletta is just 10 minutes and so we set off quite early in the morning after another superb brioche and cappuccino.
The historical centre of Barletta is an easy walk from the station. Barletta joins Andria and Trani as being capoprovincia of the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani. Andria is inland and Trani on the sea concentrated around the harbour. Barletta is undecided. It's on the coast but the castle and historical centre are set back from the sea and although there's a long seafront and beaches the town rather snubs both.
The first place we encounter on the way to the castle is the Basilica Collegiata Santo Sepolcro with the enormous Eraclio - Il Colosso di Barletta in front.
We had seen both before on our previous visit but while I remembered the Colosso I had forgotten just how beautiful the church of Santo Sepolcro is. It's still early morning, just a few people in the church, sunlight streaming from the high windows. A special moment.
We continue our walk through the historical centre in the direction of the cathedral, which I do remember.
The remains of the Basilica Paleocristiana below the main church are open and free to visit, you have to put some coins to light the area. Above, flowers and decorations are being prepared for a wedding.
We head for the castle and decide to pay to visit the museum - the exhibition of the Civic Museum located on the first floor of the Castle is divided into the Ancient Gallery, the Nineteenth Century Gallery with paintings from the end of the 1400s to the 20th century and the Cafiero Gallery, which includes furniture, weapons, bronzes, goldsmithery, fabrics, ceramics, furnishings etc. It's nice to wander around the castle and see inside and the views from the roof are very pleasant, but there's nothing unforgettable. Something to do if you have plenty of time, which we do.
There's a joint ticket for the castle and the Pinacoteca D. de Nittis, the main reason for our visit to Barletta. Unfortunately the Pinacoteca is closed for the day. We get just a glimpse of the courtyard inside as the custodian ushers us back out. A pity, but it means we will have an excuse to return to Barletta.
It's getting on for lunchtime so we get some Focaccia Barese, not the best ever, and eat it in the park near the castle.
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