Lake Iseo Italy Mystery series

Lake Iseo Italy Mystery series
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Pranzo di lavoro: live like a local


Live like a local: Pranzo di lavoro

First of all, don’t put it onto Google translate or whatever else you use. The pranzo di lavoro I’m talking about is not a business lunch. Some words and concept in one language don’t necessarily have an equivalent in another. What is a ‘baita’ for example? If you don’t live in the Italian Alps perhaps you’d better not try to explain. Or, I’m sure you think you know what tea is, but, in the UK, when I ask my Dad what he had for his ‘tea’ he usually replies ‘coffee and chocolate cake’, but if I ask I friend in the north of England what she had for ‘tea’ she replies ‘Chicken and chips’. More here if you don't believe me! An Italian can be ‘simpatico’ without necessarily being friendly, even if that’s the word it’s usually translated with. I digress. So, let’s start again.

What is a pranzo di lavoro? 

A good quality complete meal at an all-inclusive reasonable price. The pranzo di lavoro I’m talking about is the menu of the day offered by some ristoranti and trattorie definitely in the provinces of Brescia, Bergamo, Mantova in Lombardy but also in Liguria and Emilia Romagna and further afield. I have not encountered this concept of pranzo di lavoro in central and southern Italy so much, but am happy to be corrected if you know of places. The pranzo di lavoro is available from Monday to Friday and sometimes on Saturday too. There is usually a choice of at least three first courses, three seconds, a side, ½ l water and ‘coperto’ (cover charge and service) is included. Usually coffee (espresso, macchiato o lungo but not necessarily americano o cappuccino) and a ¼ litre of house wine are included too. If you don’t drink wine you can ask for something else instead, but you may have to pay extra. There is often a simple vegetarian option but not always. Writing October 2023 a pranzo di lavoro usually costs between 12 and 15 euros. 

Is pranzo di lavoro the same as menu fisso and menu del giorno?

Sometimes the same thing, others not. A pranzo di lavoro is a menu fisso and menu del giorno but both may not be a pranzo di lavoro. You can find a menu fisso also in touristy places but it may well not be good quality food at a reasonable price. 

The pranzo di lavoro is aimed at workers, hence its name. In Lombardy and northern Italy the most typical lunchtime is 12 o’clock. So at midday you will find a lot of builders, plumbers, technicians as well as office workers, pensioners who meet there every day, couples who couldn’t be bothered to cook or are having a day out. A lot of these people are in quite a hurry so service is usually fast. The menu is usually printed out and ready on the table. Usually what is included is specified, if not, ask. Sometimes there’s a blackboard. Sometimes the restaurant will put the menu del giorno on Facebook at about 11.15 or even nearly twelve o’clock. Sometimes they just read it out to you, usually very fast. Staff in these places are usually fast, friendly and efficient, but if the place is packed don’t expect them to give you long explanations. If you want a more relaxed experience, go a little later, about one o’clock. There will be more space and less chaos and staff will have more time to take care of you. The only risk with some places is that the most interesting item on the menu will have finished. But this is impossible to predict. People who work in a bank arrive about 1.30. 

As I said, you will get a brisk and friendly welcome when you go for a pranzo di lavoro. These restaurants depend on the clients who return day after day, or whenever they’re in the area, there will mostly be local people so you can be sure they’re reliable. 

The food quality ranges from acceptable to excellent. If you’re not Italian don’t make the mistake of thinking that ‘workers’ aren’t interested in what they eat for lunch. Some restaurants have specialized in pranzo di lavoro and only open at lunchtime. The vast majority do pranzo di lavoro at lunchtime and open in the evening with menu a la carta which can cost even four times as much. Many will not mention the pranzo di lavoro option on their website. Tripadvisor reviews are not a good place to find advice about pranzo di lavoro. Google maps is much better with more updated reviews, a different type of client perhaps.

It’s a good idea to book a table, the same morning is best, not in advance.

Here is a list of restaurants and trattorie that do pranzo di lavoro which I have tried personally, or a friend has. I’ve divided into Good and Special. These are just my invented categories, not something official!

By Very Good I mean that the pranzo di lavoro is excellent quality for money, dishes are good or excellent quality standard dishes of Italian cuisine, for example from pasta al pomodoro/ragù, carbonara, pesto, prosciutto e panna, salmone, ravioli, risotto of various types, lasagna, pasta al forno for firsts and seconds like cotoletta, scaloppine, pollo arrosto, braciole di maiale, carne in umido with polenta, trota alla griglia etc for seconds.

By Special I mean creative combinations I wouldn’t expect to find in a pranzo di lavoro, or more sophisticated ingredients or maybe more fish options, or a superb location. I’ve specified why I consider them special. This is just my opinion…..

Please contribute!

Do you know of a restaurant or trattoria which does pranzo di lavoro? Tell me so I can add it to the list. You can use the comments below.

Tell me the name, location, anything else you want and if you want me to put your name or not.

Category: Special

Name: Goen

Location: Pisogne, (BS) Lake Iseo

Website: https://www.ristorantegoen.com/  

Comments: the chef here is just so good! Creative choices, often fish. Next to the lake. Friendly staff. Book, and get there 12/12.30 because the most interesting choices can run out. Outside terrace. A mix of clients, lots of not-workers


Name: Osteria la Vinaccia & Bonzoni

Location: Ome (BS)

Website: https://www.osterialavinaccia.com/

Comments: the meat is superb, especially ‘spiedo’, buffet of sides. There is a big car park at the BACK of the restaurant. Excellent quality. Closed on Mondays.


Name: Trattoria GinGin

Location: Rivoltella di Desenzano (BS) near Sirmione, Lake Garda

Website: https://www.facebook.com/trattoriaGinGin/?locale=it_IT

Comments: Superior for the wide choices, good quality, generous portions. Packed out at 12 o’clock. Get there later – towards one. Special also because despite the large amount of customers somebody checked we were fine several times. Oh, and sorbetto al Limone or al caffè is included instead of coffee if you prefer.


Name: Villa Kinzica

Location: Sale Marasino, (BS) Lake Iseo

Website: https://www.villakinzica.it

Comments: In the summer, dine outside on the terrace of a four star hotel with a view of the lake. Usually very quiet. Creative menu, good food but the service and environment make it special.


Name: Trattoria Isidora

Location: Mantova 

Website: https://trattoria-isidora.business.site/

Comments: not in the centre, convenient if you’re travelling, park right outside. Special because it’s a run by a cooperative of differently abled young people, good food, better if you’ve got an appetite.


Name: Ristorante Al Giogo

Location: Gavardo (BS) near Salò, Lake Garda

Website: https://ristorante-al-giogo.business.site/

Comments: Do not be put off by the exterior or by peering through the windows! The food is excellent and the staff friendly. I remember Canederli as a first and bollito misto with sauces as a second!


Category: Very good 

Name: La Vecchia Hosteria

Location: Malegno (BS) Vallecamonica

Website: https://www.facebook.com/lavecchiahosteria

Comments: Book, it’s always packed at 12 o’clock. Big choice. Dessert included.


Name: La Ruota Blu

Location: Pian Camuno (BS) Vallecamonica

Website: https://laruotablu.it/

Comments: Best to arrive for 12 o’clock. Going at 1pm it’s quieter but the food isn’t quite so perfect.


Name: Ristorante Ciolò

Location: Piancogno, (BS) Vallecamonica

Website: https://www.facebook.com/ristoranteciolopiamborno 

Comments: Very friendly. Always an interesting risotto among the choices. Outside terrace


Name: Beatì

Location: Artogne (BS) Vallecamonica

Website: https://www.trattoriabeati.com

Comments: specialized in horsemeat


Name: Albergo le Betulle

Location: Corteno Golgi vicino a Pian di Gembro Nature Reserve Trivigno Aprica (BS)

Comments: Limited choices but good food. Book. It may be in the middle of nowhere but it’s usually full.


Name: Bar Ristorante Gino

Location: Ancona

Website: https://ristoranteselfgino.it/

Comments: self-service or served at table with different prices according to number of courses. Big choice. Spaghetti alle vongole were excellent. It’s on the outskirts, convenient if you get off the motorway or are travelling.

Name: Trattoria Da Pippo

Location: Padova

Website: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trattoria-Da-Pippo


Name: Serenella 2

Location: Azzano San Paolo (BG) near Bergamo Orio al Serio airport

Website: https://www.ristorantepizzeriaserenella2.it/

Comments: convenient for the airport, car parks etc, ideal if you can fit it in before an afternoon flight, park right outside so ok if you’ve got luggage.

Name: Neropaco in Villa

Location: Ponte San Marco, Calcinato (BS)

Website: https://neropaco-in-villa.business.site 


Name: Osteria Fontanì

Location: Provaglio d'Iseo BS Lake Iseo in the Torbiere Reserve

Website: https://www.facebook.com/osteria.fontani/

Comments: local dishes too


Name: Ristorante A Lago

Location: Marone


Name: Coccole di cibo

Location: Goito, near Mantova

Website: https://www.facebook.com/coccoledicibo/


Name: Almici

Location: Lovere

Website: https://www.facebook.com/almicilovere


Name: Trattoria La Moretta

Location: Borgonovo Val Tidone PC not far from the motorway Piacenza towards Liguria

Comments: Gnocco fritto and other typical food – excellent


There are bound to be loads I’ve forgotten, so I’ll update this post. 

Please contribute!

Do you know of a restaurant or trattoria which does pranzo di lavoro? Tell me so I can add it to the list. You can use the comments below 

Tell me the name, location, anything else you want and if you want me to put your name or not.




 

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