Sardinia by ferry - Livorno Olbia Livorno

We visited Sardinia by ferry several times in the years 2003-2008. We used to get the ferry by night and I have traumatic memories of sleepless nights. We didn't want a cabin because I'm claustrophobic so we spent uncomfortable nights not really sleeping in the official armchairs, a disaster, or wherever we could find space to lie down and feeling totally exhausted the following day.

Now older and wiser, this time we chose to travel by ferry from Livorno to Olbia by day in May 2024. We got a good price with Grimaldi lines. We booked just 2/3 weeks before travelling Tuesday on the outward trip and Thrusday on the return trip. Travelling by day worked very well for us. We drove down to Livorno arriving the evning before, slept about 45 minutes from the port, woke early, drove to the port, part-breakfasted in the car and then had a croissant and coffee in the reasonably priced bar at the port in Livorno. By the time we'd done that, cars were loading. 

There were very few people travelling by day. Lots of space, so we occupied an area of the lounge to the front of the ferry. Officially you are not supposed to picnic, but only to consume food bought on the boat. We saw lots of people eating their own food and so did we, although having looked at the self-service I'd probably eat there next time. On the outward journey the weather was rainy at first but soon settled down. However it was very windy so we didn't spend any time up on the outdoors deck near the (small and empty of water) swimming pool.

On the return journey we drove first thing in the morning from Santa Teresa di Gallura to Olbia, not much traffic at around 7 a.m. Breakfast is a little more tricky because if you go to the bar you then have to go through security (like at the airport) to go back to the port area. For the return journey the weather was fantastic so we spent a lot of time looking at the views and also sunbathing up on the swimming pool deck - level 11. The day passed quickly looking at Sardegna, Corsica, Isola di Elba and then arriving in Livorno. 

Getting off the ferry and driving out of the port was quick and easy and we spent that night in Pietrasanta.

Conclusions

1. Travelling by night without a cabin in the past was exhausting because I couldn't sleep. Travelling by day this time was a relaxing and enjoyable experience. I looked at the views and the sea, wandered around, read, had a nap.

2. If you don't intend to eat your own food, it's cheaper to add one of the all-inclusive special offers to your ticket when you book (or apparently at the ticket office just before departure but I have no experience of that) than to pay directly onboard, although there are (more expensive) 'menus' there too. The self-service looked good and even if there weren't many people on the ferry quite a few people, in proportion, ate there - there are also ferry workers etc. Food looked to be fresh. The restaurant was deserted when I went to have a look.

3, The Grimaldi lines ferry we took was clean and modern - yes a few marks on the upholstery, but toilets and facilities were clean. Some people take big beach towels to mark out their area of the seats in the lounge.

4. The air-conditioning is very aggressive. I was wearing leggings, a vest, a T-shirt and a light fleece  and a scarf and I felt chilly. Several people had light fleece blankets on top of them for a nap or to sit and read in the lounge.

5. There are one or two two-prong plugs here and there if you need to charge your phone, but very few. Grimaldi lines advises you to activate airplane mode, my phone went into roaming from France (Corsica), not a problem for me, but be careful.

6. The fact you are first on to the ferry because you were good and arrived early, doesn't necessarily mean you will be first off. Just accept it.

7. While you are waiting in your parked car at the port in Livorno (at least the Grimaldi departure point- there are different ones) you can go the the bar and toilets without restrictions. Everything was clean. In Olbia you can go just to the toilets freely, but if you go to the bar you will then have to re-enter the port area through security like at the airport make sure you've got your ticket and a document with you and that you haven't got a pen-knife in your pocket.

8. If the weather is nice and it's not too windy it's pleasant to stay in the open up on deck 11, take your sun hat though....

An enjoyable way to reach Sardinia.