Sardinia in May Day 9 Isola Rossa to Capo Testa, Santa Teresa di Gallura

Isola Rossa to Santa Teresa di Gallura

Tomorrow is another day someone once said so we load up the car and drive to the weekly market in Porto Torres where we buy more of the excellent cheese from the same stall, broad beans, aubergines, Scamona tomatoes and eucalyptus and Asphodelus honey and head north. One of the plans had been to stay in Castelsardo which we remembered vaguely from a previous trip years ago, partly because it's one of the 'borghi più belli d'Italia". The Eurospin just before it has no Gastronomia section, we're not in the mood for risking a restaurant, the streets are narrow and there's nowhere to park and so we skip it.

At the same time I'm not keen on another late lunch when I'm at the end of my tether like the day before. So, we turn off the main road down towards Isola Rossa, another place we nearly stayed, convinced that nothing will be open this early in the season. Surprise, the supermarket is open so the planned essential picnic is enhanced by Soppressa made in Sardegna and very decent fresh bread and a can or two of Ichnusa. This time (having studied the area intensely on Google Maps while wondering whether to stay there), I know exactly where to park in the shade, sheltered from the wind with a splendid view of intensely blue sea and reddish rocks and Isola Rossa itself. We picnic in the cool insect-free safety of the car and then go in search of coffee. Amazingly, we are spoilt for choice, everywhere is open even if there are few people around. We choose the Margherita beach bar actually on the beach and relax and drink coffee in the shade.

Much refreshed we cover the last few kilometres to Santa Teresa di Gallura, stop at Eurospin to stock up on a few essentials and arrive at our accommodation at Capo Testa too early. It doesn't matter. Our host's father welcomes us. The apartment is simple, mostly modernized, clean, with parking and has a spectacular view of the coast on each side.

After a rest we walk to the lighthouse at Capo Testa. The rocks and the views are as wonderful as we remembered. Rocks modelled by wind and water through the centuries into weird and wonderful shapes that resemble animals, monsters, tortured humans. It's a fantastic place, totally different from, but in some way similar to, El Torcal in Spain.

We go back for a quick supper and are soon out again for a glorious sunset and the first beams of the lighthouse.