Puglia in May - Mola di Bari, Casamassima, Bitetto

We set off at about nine, planning to stop in Giovinazzo on the way to Trani. Only when we see the signs for Mola di Bari it occurs to us that we've never visited Mola di Bari and perhaps it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so. I complain about parking in the sun because I'm worried about the car full of luggage including the cheese I bought in Alberobello but we only stop for half an hour. Mola is a bustling seaside town with a port and a fish market as well as a nice square, church with crypt and castle. 

Not touristy, full of local people going about their business. It could be a good place to stay to visit the area.

Our next stop isn't Giovinazzo either. A detour takes us to Casamassima, famous for its houses painted light blue in the historical centre, except that many of them aren't any more. 

It doesn't matter. There are a few, and some attractive corners all the same. Also I find a parking place in the shade. A restaurant which looks promising turns out to be closed but the lady in the baker's where we buy focaccia and a panzerotto is friendly and we do find a shady tree under which to sit in the car and eat.

Last stop before Trani, is still not Giovinazzo but Bitetto, famous for our favourite olives and a splendid church in Puglia Romanesque style. 

Here, we get lucky. The church outside is beautiful, we find a café open for coffee and when we wander back to the historical centre for a closer look at the outside of the church we are thrilled to find it open. Amazing, and welcome, for early afternoon in Puglia. In the sacristy we glimpse the priest napping with his leg up on a chair. How very nice of him to open his church so early in the afternoon. And the inside is worth seeing.........

We finally arrive in Trani for 3.30 pm and check into Germinario B&B where we also stayed last year. After taking the car to the safe car park we go for merenda to the bar we discovered last year and then for a stroll around beautiful Trani. Supper is of more focaccia, local round cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and nespole. We don't make it out in the evening but we do glimpse a procession from the window. There's always something happening in Trani.