Piombino in October - Venturina, Sterpaia, Torre Mozza

On Sunday morning we go back to the beach because there's a surfcasting fishing contest. An exotic name for fishing from the beach. The long line of competitors continues out of sight along Rimigliano beach and we walk a little and stand to watch; we see a couple of fishermen catch a couple of small fish.

Our next stop is in Venturina Terme, one of the few small towns in the area we didn't visit in May, perhaps because, as we soon discover, there isn't much in Venturina.

We get to San Lorenzo on time at 12.15. We have booked to eat at the Circolo Arci where they are apparently specialised in wild boar. It's an informal atmosphere, we eat outside where it's warm and pleasant. Andrea has tortelli with Ragu di cinghiale as a first and I try a couple then we both have the wild boar in umido with black olives. Very good indeed.

It's a relaxing place, apart from a group of hunters who come in complete with rifles. Fortunately they haven't booked and have to eat inside. We get chatting to the couple next to us, about the area, then Puglia, then the north, fog, snow, language, dialect, perceptions. It's one of those places on a sleepy warm October Sunday. I pay the bill, fair, 40€ for one first, two seconds, a side, water, half a litre red wine and two coffees.

Eventually we drag ourselves up and head for Parco della Sterpaia. A beautiful and extremely walkable empty beach. It's warm and sunny - splendid.

We are then undecided but prosaically choose the supermarket. We need to do some shopping for the week and also for the return home and there's a Pam nearby - a good supermarket, we don't much like the Coop and we go to the Conad at home anyway.

We take our time so much that when we come out it's ten to six, nearly sunset. We just make it to Torre Mozza in time (thank you Google maps). A sunset that's spectacular, a breathtaking medley of red and purple with the tower outlined against the lights of Piombino. A splendid splendid day.