Naples in October - Day 6

Our last morning in Naples is dedicated to shopping for the following week near Piombino. Several kilos of fruit and vegetables, a couple of bottles of wine Andrea rather liked and some more tripe for lunch. 

By the time we get back the long threatened rain has started so we have a long and leisurely lunch break and I get our stuff together, which doesn't take long because I didn't actually unpack. It's about three by the time we go out and our search for something interesting to eat but not perishable for a friend takes us exploring however fruitless it is.

We find Basilica San Giovanni Maggiore which is just opening, with fake marble walls which seem almost embroidered with flowers in the dim light and a very nice basso rilievo of Saint John Baptist. Next we go for a coffee and to try a 'nuvola' - soft light and delicious for just 1€ each at Cafe Ceraldi, excellent cappuccino too and smart and clean.

Our next stop is to buy an underground ticket, not to travel but to admire the famous Toledo station, going up and down several times on the escalators.

On the way for a last look at Umberto 1 gallery we look into Chiesa di Santa Brigida where the supposedly important cupola is impossible to decipher due to the gloom but the unusual "Volto Santo", a green and gold statue, a copy of the original in Lucca, is well worth the visit.

Inside the Gallery we notice the big difference between the restored part and the grimy part. Perhaps Naples could be splendid as well as interesting with some tender loving care.

On the way back we stop in Pignasecca at forneria Coppola, where amazingly the man remembers we had been there in the morning for the Panini which weren't ready and starts counting them into a bag before we can ask. He must see hundreds of people every day. This kind touch....touches me. We stock up on Sfogliatelle at Leopoldo Infante, and add a couple of Nuvole too.

Last stop is for pizza fritta. We hurry home with the boxes. Enormous! And very good.....of course....... pizza in Naples.