Garfagnana in October

I'd noticed the Garfagnana area on the map a few times when planning various trips but had never been tempted to actually visit, because the Garfagnana is one of those middle of nowhere places. We live in another, so I'd been reluctant to add four or five hours extra driving to visit the area when going south or north and the reason we are finally heading that way this morning before returning home is actually the desire to see a friend we haven't seen for ages rather than to visit the valley. 

Since seeing our friend is the priority I haven't done any research  about what to do and see. "To do" is to see her, and "to see" is whatever she wants to show us. On the way we stop at L'angolo dei Golosi in Mazzanta to get some cakes, we are lucky - perhaps because it's the long weekend there's an abundant choice.  We're meeting our friend at two o'clock and we get a little late on the way, taking the ordinary roads, distracted by the countryside, fields, autumn trees and colours.  Andrea chooses by chance somewhere to stop for a quick picnic. So even though I'm impressed by the bridge we go under (actually an aqueduct) I'm not expecting my navigator (Andrea) to take me to a wow place. 

But Eremo dei Colamini is just that, an impossible place to build a hermitage, but there it is. The Grotta is open too and the the silence of the place perched on the rock face among the autumn colours is as beautiful as it is unexpected.

We meet up with our friend and she takes us to discover Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, a small town squashed down at the bottom of the valley where some rivers meet but with interesting buildings and corners, and a castle.

It's quite busy on this Saturday afternoon and the temperature is still mild, a misty October afternoon. 

After looking at the centre we walk up to the Fortress where there are fine views of the mountains all around, the Apuane towards the sea and the Apennines in the other direction. We walk down a different way, through the chestnut trees.

We get in some pizzas from the pizzeria below her flat and light the log fire, it's nice to chat and catch up after so long.

We leave the next morning, after some excellent pancakes, and our friend suggests we take the road up to Passo Vestito towards Massa. The morning was grey and misty but as we drive the mist lifts and it's a surprise to discover Isola Santa on the lake by the dam. A tiny hamlet and like the Eremo the day before, something out of a fairy tale. We look around in the chilly damp morning, fascinated by the houses, the church, the setting.

As we continue uphill the sun comes out and the view from Passo Vestito stretches as far as the sea, with the big chunks of the marble quarries to the right and below. 

It's time to go home.