Tuscany September 2020 Cortona

The next morning we are getting into the car just as anxious parents are seeing their children off for the first day of school in the midst of anti-Covid-19 masks and precautions. So it's still early when we arrive at the Celle di San Francesco monastery just outside Cortona. This is a very special place. The buildings themselves seem to have emerged under gentle coaxing from the landscape, set down along the sides of a ravine they are in total harmony with surrounding nature. 

As often happens, we just stand and stare for a while, then look at the minute chapel outside San Francesco's chamber, the slightly larger church and walk down through the woods and back along the Duke's bridge. It's cool and silent in the early morning and we finally relax.

We are too relaxed even to drive straight to Cortona. Instead we park at the Santa Margherita sanctuary on the hill above Cortona. The sanctuary is a mix of styles, more modern than it looks but harmonious and peaceful. 

The view, especially from the terrace, beyond the wooden doors to the right of the church is of the surrounding Tuscan countryside and lake Transimeno beyond. It's all too nice to rush away so we find a shady bench to linger and enjoy the view, snooze, relax and have a very early picnic lunch. There are even clean public toilets and a coffee and snack machine.

Eventually, we are ready and decide to leave the car there in the shade and walk down to Cortona. It's now lunchtime and another seriously hot day but going downhill is simple and there's a cool breeze. Cortona is quiet and peaceful, we have a look in a couple of churches we go by, especially the Chiesa di San Francesco where there's a fragment of the Holy Cross brought by Brother Elia from Constantinople. We soon reach Piazza della Repubblica in the centre. 

There are a few people around, not many, and it's pleasant to wander around. We go into a couple of art galleries too. The cathedral is free to visit but the most interesting works of art are now in the small Museo Diocesano just in front. It costs €5 per person but it is worth it. It's just a small museum so you don't get tired looking round it. The enormous paintings by Signorelli are quite spectacular, in particular the "Assunzione" and the "Compianto" and the "Annunciazione" by Fra Angelico

and the Cross by Lorenzetti are other highlights. Downstairs there are later frescoes by Vasari and assistants. Back out in the sunshine we look for Vicolo Iannelli, just below, with its ancient overhanging houses 

and the round church of San Benedetto 

before making our way to the Belvedere for a short rest to admire the view. It's time to head back up to the car, a bit of an effort because of the heat but it takes us through interesting narrow streets and the oldest, Etruscan part of Cortona.

Back up at the Basilica of Santa Margherita the cool breeze is refreshing and we take advantage of the vending machines for coffee and water. Time to head back to Sinalunga through the calm Tuscan countryside.