September 2020 Circeo Fondi and Monastero San Magno

The forecast for Saturday is good. Hence, we are annoyed to find cloud and rain. We set off anyway when it starts brightening up but by the time we get to Fondi it's nearly eleven o'clock, we are surprised to find it difficult to park, with faded painted lines difficult to decipher. I was driving on the way in and was probably 6/7 kilometres too fast through a speed trap so am touchy and irritated. Fondi has a fine and well-restored castle which is quite impressive at the start of the historical centre but the Duomo is busy with a wedding to which anyway there is limited access due to anti-Covid-19 precautions. We walk through the centre, where there are quite a lot of local people around and a group of tourists on a guided tour which we inadvertently follow. They have just finished in the Santa Maria church as we go in, nice outside and inside but nothing particularly memorable.

We go as far as the Jewish quarter but skip the museum because the group has just gone in. After a quick look at the church of San Francesco and the cloister of San Domenico we go back to the Duomo where the last wedding guests are leaving but the custodian firmly closes the door almost on their heels. So that is that. Fondi, apart from the squares of stone paving in the historical centre really isn't irresistible and I hope we didn't get a speeding fine coming here.

Another reason for coming to Fondi was to visit the San Magno Monastery. A religious building on this site dates back to the 6th century but the monastery changed hands many times, was frequently attacked, spoiled of its splendor and abandoned and only in recent years has it been restored. First of all we take our picnic to one of the covered benches and tables in the garden. Despite the optimistic forecast the sun has not yet appeared but it's a very pleasant place for a picnic. There's nobody around.

Afterwards, we explore. Everything is open to the public as it is now used by a Fraternity. Restoration has been simple, respecting what remained and using simple decorations made of wood or recycled agricultural implements.

On the lower level there is still the medieval church, 

with a Latin cross and crypt, and interesting frescoes; then above the Renaissance church reopened for worship and dedicated to St. Benedict; some structures possibly pertinent to the last stages of the complex's life, in particular the mill, the guesthouse and the oil processing tanks, everything is open, cared for, with wooden tables of messages and prayers to read and ponder on. A calm and free atmosphere. We like it very much. We make a small contribution buying some walnut liqueur in the small 'shop' which is unattended. A special place.

Back in San Felice Circeo the sun has finally appeared and we manage an hour of sunbathing on the terrace and a long walk on the beach before the rain arrives.