September 2020 Circeo Terracina and Sabaudia beach sunset

Tuesday morning is deceptively sunny and clear because by the time we get to Terracina dark clouds are brewing. We drive up to Giove Anxur, on the way up there's a good view over the town for us to get our bearings. 

Coming back down we park not far from San Francesco's church, which is closed, and through a small arch and narrow street just down from the church we are in the historical centre of Terracina. Which is really historical, full of ancient buildings, an archaeological site in the centre is still being investigated, practically every building seems to have something ancient incorporated and absorbed over the centuries.

Piazza del Municipio is a fine square despite the destruction inflicted during the war. The town hall has been designed to blend in smoothly with the surrounding palaces, the paving is the original paving from Roman times, the Cathedral is a mismatch of ancient and old architecture resulting in an unexpectedly and harmonious facade which requires time to appreciate fully after the initial "how beautiful" reaction. 

We are quite early and the cathedral doesn't open until 9.30 so we continue our stroll around the historical centre which is full of narrow streets which are hardly ever dead ends but instead lead to corners of ancient buildings, flowers, streets of small square blocks of light stone, abandoned churches and many being restored such as the unusual facade of Chiesa del Purgatorio. The walk along the ramparts takes us past private houses opening directly onto the narrow walkway and views over the hills behind.

It was worth waiting for the cathedral to open, and entry is free although unfortunately it's very dark inside and there's no illumination for one euro option. The floor mosaics date back to the 12th-13th centuries, the medieval pulpit (first half of the 13th century), supported by five columns and next to it a spiral column for the Easter candle, dated 1245, are especially interesting.

By the time we come out it is seriously raining but we just manage to go down to Cantina Sant'Andrea to get a bottle of the local Moscato Secco and back to the car before it becomes an absolute deluge.

Later, in the afternoon, we drive to the beach of Sabaudia where paying for parking is absolutely unavoidable and absurdly obligatory all year even though on a weekday in September there are only a handful of parked cars. Access to Torre Paula, we discover is through private land and requires 'offering a coffee' to the owner (?). 

We decline for the time being and start walking along the beach. The beach is famous for the views of Monte Circeo and for the dunes. Although the tourist blurb omits to mention that there are a large number of private houses built all along amongst the dunes. So much for the nature reserve. It's a pity somebody wasn't as strict in the past about building as they are about parking in the present. 

We walk a while, but the sand isn't as firm and flat for walking as further along the coast in Marina di Latina or San Felice Circeo. So we sit and wait for the sunset, but the sun hides behind some imposing clouds only offering a glimpse of its glory. Still, there's hardly any one around, a few hopeful photographers and some dog walkers. And after the sun sets it's just a ten minute drive back to some ricotta di bufala on the terrace.