Bolsena and Manciano in May
Our journey from Fratta Todina to Piombino will take us over three hours by car so we set off early, well, by nine o'clock. Bolsena on the lake of the same name is on the way, so we stop there. A good choice.
Quiet, easy to park near the Rocca, a pretty historical centre, we also have a look at the Collegiata di Santa Cristina. The side chapel dedicated to Santa Lucia has some interesting 14th and 15th century frescoes (50 cents for the illumination which lasts long enough to see the chapel frescoes in some detail). We go into the grotta where there's the tomb of Santa Cristina but decide not to pay 5€ each to see the catacombs.
It's time to move on and dark clouds are looming. Soon after we leave Bolsena, the rain starts. The drive through the hills is easy on quiet roads but the views are not as spectacular as in the area of Tuscany around Siena.
We park in Manciano as the bells toll 12.30. In perfect time for lunch at the Ristomacelleria La Imperiale. This is the right place to eat meat, so we do. Simple surroundings, we choose a Costata di Buttera with one side of fried potatoes with skins on and another of cicorie ripassate. Is the the meat good? Yes, it's Limousine, apparently and it's tender and not at all chewy. Is it unforgettable, like the Retinto we ate in Antequera? No.
The costata was 8 etti, 800 grams, but, perhaps because it doesn't need chewing, when we've dealt with it, we're still hungry so we finish off the excellent bread with the equally excellent olive oil from Montemerano. We're satisfied, even if not over the moon, and the bill, including half a litre of wine and some water is 42 euros, so reasonable.
We stop for coffee in a very pleasant bar because rain is threatening again and then have an apprehensive quick look around the historic centre of Manciano because dark clouds are looming and I optimistically left all three umbrellas in the car. The view is nice, all the way to the sea.
Time to move on. We make good time until we grind to a halt on the dual carriageway north of Grosseto, due to an accident. After another stop for shopping at PAM supermarket in Follonica we get to the apartment in Piombino for 5.30.
Ah...the sea ....
After supper we head to Piombino on foot to look for the sunset, but dark clouds are intruding once more and we have a quick look at the centro storico before going 'home'.
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