Malaga in November - Day 8 Antequera

The coach to Antequera leaves from the bus station which is a nearly 25 minute walk from the apartment so we are out by 20 past 8. Surprisingly, when we arrive there's no long queue at the Alsa ticket office but anyway we've already got our tickets. Two return tickets cost a total of just under 24€. The coach leaves more or less on time and isn't quite full, it eventually goes as far as Cordoba. The journey to Antequera goes smoothly and when we arrive we take a look at the weekly market, but without buying anything. We then stroll around the newer part of the historical centre. 

Antequera is famous for having more churches than any other town in Spain but it must be said that the vast majority are firmly closed, at least on a weekday morning in November, another handful are open and you have to pay, and of the remaining (?) we find only the parish church of San Sebastian in the main square. The statues as soon as you go in are worth noting as quite unusual especially the Maria Magdalena with skirt of palm trees 

and the Jesus collecting his robes after the flagellation.

It's quite cold wandering around so slowly, we go into the Mercado de Abastos but it seems quite deserted, and then into the MAD, Museo Arte Diputación which has some modern art which once again leaves us cold but is housed in an interesting and well restored building, which leaves us snug and warm.

To stay warm we decide to go in search of the Textile Museum, this requires a brisk walk up to the historical centre not far from the Alcazaba and going up the quite steep streets in the sun has the desired effect. First we get lost, which is excellent because we discover by chance Iglesia di Santa Maria de Jesus (closed) but from where there are some nice views 

and the unusual Portichuelo or Capilla Tribuna Virgen del Socorro, an unusual little chapel in the same square. 

We eventually find the museum in the converted textile factory Henchidero. Entrance is free and the guardian is kind and welcoming. The exhibition is in the basement and includes machinery used for textile production which used to be an important industry in Antequera and the area. Explanations are in Spanish but it's interesting and we also see the patio and wheel which brought up the water from the river below. 

By the time we've finished there and walk along the pedestrian Huerto de Perea and beneath Puerta del Agua and onto Plaza del Carmen it's well past our lunchtime so we go straight to Meson Casa Diego where we had such a good meal one evening after nearly getting flooded out on our road trip last year.

The food is as excellent as we remember it, this time callos (a stew of all the poorest and hence delicious parts of the pig) followed by Solomillo de Retinto, so so good. Accompanied by three beers, olives while deciding and complimentary Pedro Jimenez to finish we spend a grand total of €26. Just excellent, I fear I will have to find an excuse to return to Antequera yet again at some point in the future.

Time is getting on so we go up to the Alcazaba where there's free entry on Tuesdays after 2pm. It normally costs 4€ .

Really all that is left of the Alcazaba are the walls and two towers which you can go up to the top of. One is a bell tower and it 'rings' at four o'clock quite deafening us. The view of the surrounding countryside and mountains is probably the best thing about the visit. 

Inside the walls are only some grassed over remains and gardens, mainly grass and trees.

We've still got time to visit the equally free Real Colegiata de Santa María 

where apart from the serene architectural beauty of the Renaissance building we are struck by the frescoes of a fighting medieval lady and the dark red colour of the sacresty. It's a little unnerving to then discover on the Internet that the church is no longer used for religious purposes and that the whole thing is actually a setting for the filming of some episodes of the Netflix series "Warrior Nun".... I think they should at least have put up a note somewhere to specify this information. Nevertheless the Tarasca of the medieval lady representing faith controlling the seven snakes representing sins is original. On the way back down to the bus stop we linger to buy some of the famous Mantecados de Antequera which have invaded Málaga for Advent. At least here they should be the original ones. The friendly girl in the shop gives us one each to try. Mmmm...... potential.....we buy some.  I have to check the map several times to navigate back to the bus station and still get it wrong, I have not completely got the hang of Antequera yet and suspect there may be more to see, especially in the pueblo Blanco part of town around the Alcazaba. Could that be excuse enough to return??? Our return bus is on time and makes an extra and for us convenient stop near the hospital, so we are soon home.