Umbria in May - Spoleto

The next day is sunny and we set off at about 8.30, destination Spoleto. We park in the Ponziano car park (whole day 5 euros) which is handy for the 8 covered escalators which easily and quickly take us to the very top of Spoleto where there is the Rocca Albornoziana. It’s impressive for size and the pale apricot colour of clean stone and is one of the symbols of the city.

It’s also the first place for a glimpse of the Ponte Torri, unique in its kind: 230 meters long, 82 meters high and 10 arches. It’s currently undergoing restoration and to get a better view of it we head down hill and then turn left coming out of the gates at Piazza Campello. 

From here there is the walk all around the perimeter of the Rocca. An easy and relaxing walk on the flat. We look at the vegetation, so different on the sunny side (yes, there’s a good view of the bridge from here) and on the north-facing shady side.

Our next stop is in the main square of the city: Piazza del Duomo. Coming down from the Rocca we go under the Arco del Seminario and then reach the top of the steps which lead down towards the Duomo, and the view of the cathedral in the bright morning sunshine in May is splendid.

                                

The square is almost empty. We take our time going down the steps, admiring the façade with its eight rose windows. In particular the upper part of the façade, in Romanesque style, is beautiful, including the central niche showing Christ (Pantocratore) between Our Lady and Saint John the Evangelist.

The Duomo is dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption. Inside the church, it is mostly in plain Baroque style except for the semicircular apse, which is elegantly decorated with 15th century frescoes by Filippo Lippi showing events from the life of Maria -the Annunciation, the Nativity Scene, the death and the coronation. It’s a sunny day so we don’t need to put 50 cents into the box for illumination. Instead I spend them to turn the light on in the unusual Chapel of Relics.

It's a beautiful day so we skip spending 10 euros each to visit the Archbishop’s Palace and Church of Sant’Eufemia and continue down on foot through the historical centre, stopping to visit the wide Piazza del Mercato and the Arco di Druso. Spoleto has many interesting and picturesque corners and alleys, 

and walking downhill is easy and we soon get to the Basilica di San Gregorio Maggiore, again in Romanesque style. The interior is mostly in plain stone with a few nice frescoes which escaped the Baroque attack.

The crypt seems in darkness but the lights turn on as we take the first step down. Very nice. Except, oops, it’s lunch time and we haven’t found anywhere suitable. We take the mechanized walkways back up to Piazza Mercato. But the place where we thought we could get a couple of slices of focaccia with sausage and friarelli has been invaded by a horde of school children, scattering napkins, crumbs, discarded pizza and paper all over the place. We retreat and succumb to a peaceful table at taverna dei Duchi. Andrea sticks to Cinghiale in Umido. I have the tourist menu: 2 very welcome slices of bruschetta doused in excellent olive oil with three generous slices of raw ham for antipasto, Stringozzi al Rancetto, and mixed cheeses (4 small pieces with a drop of honey) together with water, wine and 2 coffees. The service is good and we spend less than 40 euros. I’m satisfied. We’ve tried a few local dishes and I haven’t eaten too much.

We walk back to piazza del Mercato and then up past the Town Hall on the left with the sundial which doesn’t seem to be correct, until we find a small green area in Piazza Campello with some benches for a rest. Later, after a last stroll round by the Duomo we take the Ponziana escalator back down to the Carpark. From here, two minutes by car takes us to a side road with a car park in front of the church of San Ponziano. Our aim is to visit San Salvatore, a Unesco site. Yes, the façade is beautiful and you can get a glimpse of the interior through a rather grubby glass door but the real surprise is the façade of San Ponziano and the excellent frescoes in the crypt..

Our last stop of the day is for another façade: that of San Pietro. Well worth the stop,and the view of Rocca  Albornoziana equally so. We liked Spoleto.