September 2020 Circeo Sperlonga and Terracina

The weather is unreliable and the weather forecast even more so. It says only occasional light rain so we ingenuously decide to visit Sperlonga, another destination where paying for parking, this time up until 1st October, is unavoidable. We park in the so-called low cost car park near the sports ground which costs 0.70€ per hour and where there's just one other car. From there it's about 25 minutes to the historical centre so I take the rucksack with our picnic too. 

It's hot and muggy and by the time we reach the tower and look back there's no doubt there's something unpleasant brewing in the direction from which we arrived. A check on the weather radar shows that intense storms are approaching and the forecast has changed completely in half an hour. Nevertheless Sperlonga is worth all the bother I must admit, white-washed houses, tiny narrow streets, 

really beautiful views of the coast, especially looking south. The centre is small and we investigate it all, also eyeing up corners to shelter in when the storm hits. There's a delightful panoramic terrace with views to the south and clean white washed ceramic benches, an ideal place for a picnic. We choose a seat under a tree in case of just a few drops of water and are lucky enough to get as far as coffee before the first fat drops convince us to pack up hastily and make a run for the arches. The storm hits suddenly and wetly so we just stop in the first place we find, with another seven people. Everyone gets out their masks and we watch the rain turn torrential and start flowing like an open hosepipe out of a drain just above us. We shift around as best we can to keep dry as the alleyway doubles as a river. After about fifteen minutes there's a lull so we make for a covered balcony with a beautiful view to the north which we had noticed during our previous stroll. Just as well, right under some houses there's a large covered area and a stone in an upper corner where we are protected from what is a really violent onslaught of wind and rain. Several rivers flow down the alleys, a storm as bad as those in the mountains.

Eventually and inevitably the storm passes and the sun comes out so we are able to take a final stroll around the centre before walking back to the car, warming up on the way. We stop in Terracina and park in the free area of the car park right by the Pisco Montano. The Via Appia first crossed the hill at the back of the promontory by a steep ascent and descent but in Roman times this enormous cut in the rocks at the foot of the promontory (Pisco Montano) shortened the route by just a mile. The depth of the cut is indicated by marks on the vertical wall at intervals of 10 Roman feet; the lowest mark still visible today about 1 m above the present road, is CXX, corresponding to 36 meters but the original road was 70 metres lower. Coupled with the arch next to it, it's worth a stop.

We explore the lower and more modern part of Terracina including the grandiose church which has some thought provoking panels regardless of how religious one may be. Worth remembering, "non assaporare le lacrime" don't savour your tears, and ....(we are all)...."mendicanti di gioia" beggars for joy.

We also have another look at the old part of the town which was perhaps more atmospheric on a cloudy day, walk along the very pleasant promenade and find the cooperative of fishermen where we buy a couple of tonnetti at an acceptable price. Terracina is a very pleasant bustling town, always with the backdrop of Pisco Montano,  the castle and the temple Giove Anxur high up above, it would make a good base to explore the area. We like it.