West coast Sicily Day 9 San Vito lo Capo and Erice

We are up particularly early, back in the car we head for San Vito lo Capo. Our objective is to get there early so as to enjoy a little its splendid transparent sea before there are too many people about. We had discovered San Vito on one of our first trips to Sicily over 15 years ago. Unfortunately, so has the rest of the world and even first thing in the morning there are people on the beach already. We manage to find free parking in a large free parking area about 10 minutes walk from the beach and take up position with our beach towels on an area of free beach. The sea in San Vito is amazingly beautiful, clear transparent, Caribbean comes to mind as an adjective even though I've never been to the Caribbean. 

Also, it's the beginning of October, a warm sunny day and the sea is warm enough to stay in for ages, which I do. Andrea resists well, because the beach really is very beautiful and we also walk up and down . As usual, by 10.30/11 the intensity of both the sun and people is becoming a little too much so we pack up and go for stroll around the village which hasn't changed much: low white houses with a dash of colour from flowers and shutters, loads of restaurants. San Vito is also famous for its September Cous-cous festival.

We go back to the car where all the necessary for a picnic is awaiting us and drive up above the village to a pinewood, which, as is often the case, is not perfectly clean but cool and with splendid views and with our usual picnic sheet to sit on we are comfortable.

After lunch we head back a little way on the road back out of San Vito and stop off in Macari bay, the sea and views are beautiful but we can't stay long because they are cordoning off the area for filming. 

We go back to the road and then down another side road where we park the Fiesta in the shade and take a much-needed nap. Much refreshed, it's time to go to Erice. The views widen as the road winds its way up over the Bay of Custonaci and Monte Cofano and beyond. It's a beautifully clear day and Erice itself is warm and sunny although the air is slightly fresher because it's 750m above sea level. We manage to find some free parking on the road up, now it's low season it's enough to walk a bit further. We have visited Erice before but like it every bit as much on this return visit. The old grey lichened stone of the buildings and streets weathered by the elements are unruined by modern interference and, outside of the main streets, largely ignored by the tourists.

We follow the path around the outside of the village, then explore its meandering streets and then head for the church, one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. Outside the small church is in the usual grey stone but inside it is white embroidery, a perfect geode. We pay to go in and linger quite a while. 

The interior was remodelled in neo-Gothic style in 1865, and the intricate plasterwork of the ceiling brings to mind the elaborate icing patterns of a prize-winning wedding cake. I found it incredibly beautiful 15 years ago and am not disappointed again now. Someone puts some money in a slot and the church is lit up in a kaleidoscope of different colours. 

We wander around outside the castle, the sun is slowly sloping down towards the horizon, setting over the salt pans of Trapani and the sea towards Favignana, soft pastels turning slowly into an intense and breathtaking fire. The dusk is falling quickly as we hurry back to the car and 'home' to Trapani.