West Coast Sicily Day 3 Favignana west wing coast walk

The temperatures in Favignana are ideal for walking during the day and sleeping well at night. We don't need the air-conditioning and it's always sunny and warm and pleasant. The day before was a long hike but our feet are bearing up well despite, in my case, being unaccustomed to walking sandals. Today we set off in the opposite direction to discover Favignana's west wing. The path takes us around the small harbour where we are staying, behind the old tuna factory and then upwards this time, first along the road to Santa Caterina castle and then along the  track to the right. We are used to walking uphill and it's pleasant with the early morning air, the views widening as we go up, towards the nearby island of Levanzo and the rest of Favignana below. At the end of September the vegetation is quite brown and parched, just the occasional green of an olive tree, green pine trees, red and green euphorbia and the white flowers of the Asphodel.

There is soon a pass which brings us to the other side of  Monte Santa Caterina and finally the view of the west of the island. the path now zigzags down but is more overgrown and not quite so easy to follow but it's not far and we soon reach the road lined by drystone walls which heads towards Cala Faraglioni. There are far fewer people around than yesterday and when my phone rings with a work problem I feel I am now in a different world.

We walk along the rocky coast right next to the sea and after Cala Faraglioni 

where there are a few people walking around having parked cars or bikes. We continue to Cala Trapanese where there is nobody, the water is perfectly transparent..... irresistible..... we have reached our destination, it's just before twelve, time for a swim. The water is warm and pleasant......bliss. 

After I have dried off we take advantage of our own private cove for a picnic. Just in time, more people are starting to arrive, so we retreat to some caves a little up behind from the coast for half an hour's respite from the sun. 

We have a half idea of walking back along the north coast but quickly abandon the project, the path gets narrower and narrower and more exposed along the cliff edge and if we carry on but then find we can't continue it's going to be a very long walk.

A little reluctantly, but I believe wisely, we retrace our steps along the west coast past Calazza and cala Pozzo where there is lots of seaweed and Punta Ferro towards the punta Sottile lighthouse. The terrain is rocky and sandy with low vegetation which would probably be full of flowers in spring but is now quite dry and barren. For the first time since Cala Faraglioni we come across some people exploring around the lighthouse and then continue towards Cala Grande and Cala Rotonda. 

Favignana has many advantages including the scarcity of cars, people and stray dogs, the excellent climate, transparent sea and splendid landscapes. Prosaically, it also has a minibus service to the various extremities of the island and since our steps are now decidedly flagging it is with great relief that we find the nearest bus stop and discover that we haven't long to wait. The bus is punctual and soon we are back in Favignana town, time to buy some fish and watch the sunset behind Monte Caterina. Later, I lie on the sofa reading and listening to the waves lapping gently in the little harbour and store it all away in my memory as a place to return, albeit virtually, for peace.

Favignana Day 1 
Favignana Day 2 East wing coast Walk
Favignana Day 4 Praia and sunset at the castle
Favignana Day 5 Cala Azzurra and South Coast


Favignana Trip report