She Left No Note

She Left No Note
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West Coast Sicily Day 2 Favignana east wing coast walk

The late September early morning air is splendid and we stock up on the necessary ingredients for a picnic, in this case bread, cheese and tomatoes, water and beer and then set off turning right from the centre of Favignana along the coast towards the east 'wing' of the butterfly because the shape of the island is similar to a butterfly. The sky is blue and cloudless, the sea is deep blue, the bougainvillea is in flower, dry stone walls line our path along the coast to the left and the first of the limestone quarries or  Hypogeum gardens to the right.

West Coast Sicily Favignana


The limestone rock or 'tufo' was mined to use in building in the island and the resulting shallow and often rectangular spaces have often been used as vegetable gardens since they are protected from the wind. We come to a little bay with a few umbrellas and sun loungers for rent and then continue to Scalo Cavallo where the excavation of tuff has created a sort of smooth platform ideal for sunbathing.  

West Coast Sicily Favignana Scalo Cavallo


West Coast Sicily Favignana Scalo Cavallo


It was here that the enormous blocks of limestone were loaded onto boats to be taken to the mainland. The rocks behind also have tall caves which provide cool shade  and interesting views. We are heading for Cala Rossa and are now walking along the road, most people hire bikes to explore Favignana but this is just a little too fast and so we have decided to walk. The landscape is varied and the sun, while warm, isn't hot enough to be unpleasant so late in September.
We soon realise we have reached Cala Rossa by the enormous amount of parked bicycles. We admire the crystal clear waters between the vertical faces of the tuff quarry from above but decide not to go down, we are somewhat unsociable when it comes to sharing beaches with other people, and in this case there isn't an actual beach, more rocks you can lie on or launch yourself off if you are a good swimmer, which I'm not. But it is a truly beautiful place and deserves its place in the various best beaches lists.
West Coast Sicily Favignana Cala Rossa

We continue a short way along the white road towards Spiaggia Bue marino but before getting there clamber down onto the rocks and manage to find a corner in the shade of the rocks for our picnic. Also here the water is of an intense blue and we watch a sailing boat gliding by and look at the view of the mainland beyond. After a quick look at Spiaggia Bue marino we continue a little way inland and then back towards the coat to the Punta Marsala lighthouse. It's a bit abandoned but we find a shady place again to sit and rest for a while and enjoy the views and a refreshing breeze.
Next stop Cala Azzurra, well not a stop because once again a beautiful beach but very small and quite crowded so we walk around and have a look but resolve to return first thing in the morning later on when we can hope to have it all to ourselves. Instead we stop again further along the coast to sunbathe a little, paddle and explore some rock pools, just after Grotta Perciata. 

West Coast Sicily Favignana near Grotta Perciata

Also here the coast has been modelled by tuff extraction, although much less than the previous part. Our steps are slowing a little but we reach Lido Burrone, one of the very few sandy beaches on Favignana, once again there are quite a few people. we press on past Puntazza and Calamoni beach and finally reach a few fishermen's houses and a welcome kiosko at the beginning of Punta Lunga where we succumb to a very welcome coffee granita and a longish rest in the shade. It's time for the last few kilometres back to Favignana town, and we are a little weary when we get back, we've walked for about 16 kilometres and are a little hot and dusty. After a welcome shower and rest we stock up on fish for supper, a fantastic day on a fantastic island.
Favignana Day 1 
Favignana Day 3 West wing coast Walk
Favignana Day 4 Praia and sunset at the castle
Favignana Day 5 Cala Azzurra and South Coast

Favignana Trip report

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