Basilicata: Craco and Tursi

The next day we have planned a drive to visit the Calanchi, also to let Andrea’s knee rest. It’s a sunny day again and we strip off layers as the thermometer rises steadily. The Calanchi are a little damp and dull from the rain the day before but it’s a pleasant drive through the countryside. The view of the ruined village of Craco, totally untouched by anything modern, is probably the most interesting stop of the day. Craco can’t be visited because it is dangerous.

Our next stop is at a sanctuary near Tursi. It’s a short and interesting drive from the main road up to the church because you go right through the environment of the Calanchi. Basilica minore and Santuario “Maria SS Regina di Anglona” is perched at the top of a hill with fine views of the surrounding landscape, both the Calanchi and the river plain. The church is open and so we can visit the interior where there are still some medieval frescoes and some more modern ferocious mosquitoes. 

There’s also a garden next to the church. It would be a good place to picnic but we didn’t bring anything with us. We can see Tursi in the distance so head that way, stopping to buy some pieces of focaccia and pizza before taking the road up to Rabatana, the ancient ruined area of Tursi, like a mini Craco at the top of the new and then older village. We picnic in the shade on the way up by car but when we actually get to the Rabatana there isn’t much to see. Burial caves, a few ruined houses; the church has been restored but is closed. The best thing is the view of the surrounding countryside as far as Craco.

Once again, we are coffee-less and by now it is quite hot so we head for the sea. When we stayed in Matera last year we had a day out in Lido di Metaponto where there were still some beach bars open, so I am optimistic about coffee. I shouldn’t have been. At Lido di Policoro everything is firmly closed although we are not the only people stopping off in the hope of finding something to drink. Basilicata is not so hospitable sometimes. We give up and go home, a short drive from the sea to our accommodation. We are moving on again the following day, back to Puglia.