Torre Ovo, Sava, Madonna delle Grazie at S.Marzano di San Giuseppe, San Pietro in Bevagna

On our last morning at Al Trulletto we go to the market in Ceglie in search of fruit and vegetables and cheese and find all. Le cicorie and white aubergines, a whole tray of delicious cachi inexplicably from Spain for two euros, local cheese and some potatoes still with what looks like the red earth of Puglia that I’m hopeful will be local. 

It’s an easy drive down to the coast but our arrival at the new destination is not so pleasant. This is a place we found on subito.it and its exact location I prefer not to disclose. We booked for ten days and sent a small deposit and I was not best pleased when the day before we were supposed to arrive the owner called to say the apartment would not be available until the Saturday instead of the Wednesday, hence our very pleasant but improvised days at Trulletto.

I can’t say I have high hopes of the place but I must admit the view is accurate and the house is indeed as on the beach as you can possibly get without sinking into the sand. The apartment is not up to the standard of its position, a rusty gate, jaded sun cushions, a permanent threat of a massive invasion of ants at the slightest crumb, no hot water in the bidet or kitchen sink but to compensate the risk of being scorched in water so salty you can’t even use it for cleaning your teeth, at the bathroom basin, or in the shower, but not for long because the boiler is only of ten litres. Plaster and paint are peeling off the walls in the bathroom and the bedroom, and the leopard print cover of the sofa bed still has traces of a long past whitewashing of the walls. It’s not the worst place I’ve ever stayed, that was in Naples, if you’re interested, but the view, is well, exceptional, you can hear the waves lapping, so I get out my rubber gloves and disinfectant, clean everything and then cook. I decide not to investigate what’s behind ancient kitchen cupboards but the fridge, washing machine and toilet are all clean. 

On Sunday morning we go for a walk in Torricella as far as Torre Ovo, still quite busy on this sunny October morning, and then, after cooking, spend the afternoon on the beach. The wind is lessening but the waves are still high and aggressive. There's a spectacular sunset.

On Monday morning we go to the weekly market in Sava, which is excellent both for household and clothes items and also for food. We stock up on toasted almonds, ordinary local almonds, pistachio and more fruit and veg. It’s also interesting to have a look round. After, we drive to the chiesa rupestre of Madonna delle Grazie at S.Marzano di San Giuseppe.

 We are surprised and pleased to find it open. The door is almost pulled to, so from a distant it looks closed. The lower church, which is the chiesa rupestre, 

is well preserved structurally with a couple of interesting frescoes, in particular the Madonna delle Grazie. The upper church, small, with a carved stone altar, is also open. The rest of the area looks like it was restored a few years ago but has since been abandoned again, a pity.

In the afternoon we drive to San Pietro in Bevagna, park along the road where the parking becomes free, and take to the beach. Here, the water is almost calm and I swim, it’s transparent, shallow, a small bay, very nice. 

Then it's back to the apartment for the sunset.