Alto Salento in October: Francavilla Fontana

This year Andrea’s knee is reducing the amount of walking we can do. We need somewhere on the flat to minimize the risk so we choose Francavilla Fontana as our stop on our way to our next accommodation in Ceglie Messapica. We are lucky with parking just outside the historical centre and while Francavilla is not large, it is flat. There’s a wide pedestrian street – Via Roma - with interesting historical palaces, a square with a fountain, of course. 

The main church is hosting a wedding so we listen for a while. As we are wandering around the historical centre we go into a sort of park with columns, part of which is occupied by a restaurant which seems to be open. We have not had much luck with eating out so far this year but this inspires. Unfortunately, we discover, they only do aperitivi, but the girl is very friendly and suggests we go to Attrattoria for lunch.

We do. Finally, “antipasti” as I remembered them. The antipasti for two include: burrata, giuncata, focaccia con capocollo di Martina Franca, Parmigiana di melanzane, zucchine alla poverella, olives, toasted and salty broad beans, mussles, polpettine croccanti, stracciatella con focaccia ai cereali, alici marinate. 

Very good. We both have a first dish. Andrea has orecchiette con braciola di cavallo, very good. I have gnocchetti con cream di melanzane, pomodorini caciocavallo and capocollo, probably better in theory than on the plate but not bad. With 1 litre of water, a calice di vino locale and two coffees, the bill comes to 55 euros. It’s ok. After, we sit outside for a while to relax and then have another stroll around the old town and a look inside the courtyard of the castle and at Balcone Argentina.

After a stop at Eurospin for some shopping we drive to our accommodation in Ceglie Messapica- “Al Truletto”. This is a last minute due to let’s call it a ‘change of plan‘ by the next host by the sea. It turns out to be the best accommodation of the holiday. It is fascinating to go into a trullo, and even more so to sleep there especially when, in this case, the Trullo is a studio flat which is tiny, but has absolutely everything you could possibly need and a very pleasant and private patio to relax and eat outside. The hosts are also welcoming and friendly. Excellent.