She Left No Note

She Left No Note
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Marina di Petacciato and Vasto

The drive from Castelferretti to Marina di Petacciato between Vasto and Termoli is less than 300 kilometres but most of the route is undergoing work so it’s hardgoing. First a long queue, then the explanation: two lanes reducing to one, then contraflow, then a short stretch of fast traffic, then another queue. By the time I drive into Ikea Chieti, I’m already tired even if it’s just past eleven a.m. We have an early lunch at Ikea then do the last hour’s drive. When we arrive at our Airbnb, I’m still feeling tired. It’s newly renovated, so clean and nice and there’s a view of the sea over the roof of the station but it’s really hot and muggy, the owner says it’s better not to drink the water and there’s none in the fridge. The nearest corner shop is still closed at this time so I drink the last of the lukewarm water from the car and then we go for a walk along the beach. Nice, unspoilt, and a blue sea but the water isn’t transparent. The car is as thirsty as me so we go to the shopping centre for a few basics and get some petrol. It’s hot, a sticky heat which leaves me irritable, especially when I realize there’s no mosquito protection at any of the windows of the apartment so we can choose between melting or being bitten. We choose the latter and have dinner out on the balcony where at least there’s a cool breeze. It’s a long night, I’m tired but it’s too hot to sleep, when I try opening a window the mosquitoes arrive.

The mosquitos disappear with the dawn, so after breakfast, I open all the windows, feel the fresh air and go back to sleep. When I wake up, I’m still disinclined for action so we do nothing all morning, have an early lunch and then got to Vasto. 

Slow travel in Vasto

It is cloudy but still hot and muggy. Vasto is quiet at this time of day so we park easily near the Villa communale Park and then walk down to the small historical centre. The façade of the San Giuseppe church is nice, as is the 19th century Gothic style interior. The façade was the only part to survive attacks by the Turks and various rebuilding efforts. 

Slow travel Vasto

The best thing about Vasto is the Loggia Amblingh which stretches all along the historical centre, in both directions from Palazzo Avalos and overlooks the coast. It is even hotter there but it’s a very pleasant place for a stroll. We walk as far as the façade of a church left standing on its own after a landslide took away most of the rest of it. The portal with the sea view behind make a fine photo.

Slow travel Vasto

It's been a long hot summer, this of 2022. It started to be hot on our May trip to Puglia and the heat has continued all summer breaking records even for our small village in the mountains let alone when we ventured down to the lake so it can’t be said I’m not used to the heat, but driving back from Vasto towards the supermarket it feels unbearable even if the car only shows 34° C. I give up and turn on the air-conditioning.

Back at the apartment it’s worse, hot and sticky in and out and a combination of flies and mosquitos. As in the afternoon, I give up, and this time spray myself with mosquito repellent……


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