Basilicata: Rocchetta Sant'Antonio and Venosa

After a week in Vieste, on Saturday we are on the move again, heading for Venosa, which we visited last year, but rather in a hurry.

On the way, we stop in Rocchetta Sant’Antonio because it is a Touring Club “Bandiera Arancione” and, more or less, on the way.

We park at the very top of the village, near the least interesting of the two castles, Castel Sant'Antimo. From there, it’s just a short walk to the other castle, Castello d’Aquino, very unusual because of its helicoidal shaped tower. Built in local stone, it blends perfectly into the local landscape. 

It’s nearly lunchtime and there’s no one around up there, just a few ravens cruising on the up currents and landing onto nooks in the walls. We walk down to the main church, where there’s a wedding taking place. Rocchetta is very small and although the loggia in front of the main church is pretty, there isn’t much to see. We wander around the main square, stopping to chat to a couple of local people. Rocchetta is a small community so it’s easy to spot a tourist on an out-of-season Saturday at the end of September. 

We have already had a look in one of the two restaurants on the square. There are some local dishes on a rather faded menu but we decide it is ok. Instead, one of the people we stop to chat to, says we should go to the other restaurant called Maddalena. It seems one of those fortuitous meetings which end up in excellent food so we follow obediently. The place is modern and clean and welcoming so we order an “Antipasto“ between the two of us, remembering some delicious and varied Antipasti on our previous trip to the inland towns of Daunia in Puglia and Basilicata the previous year.

We are therefore disappointed when the antipasto turns out to be mostly of coarsely cut sliced hams, just a few grilled aubergines and courgettes. The rest of the menu seems equally uninspiring so we call it a day and continue, coffee-less as well, to Venosa.

Our B&B is in Piazza Orazio in the centre of the town, has the characteristic brick ceilings ‘a volta’, and is tastefully furnished. Very, very nice. There’s also a coffee machine so we take advantage immediately. Parking in front of the B&B is easy because the kind owner has kept us a space and moves his car for us.

After a short rest we stroll around Venosa, a historical city, and manage to see a few places we hadn’t on our previous visit, in particular the main church of Sant’Andrea with a few frescoes and the crypt below. 

We don’t feel like another attempt at eating out so picnic on some cheese, tomatoes and bread we have with us. Then we realize there is Netflix on the TV, which we haven’t got at home, and spend an enjoyable evening watching the hilarious ‘Incastrati’ with Ficarra and Piccone.