Offagna, Osimo, Ancona

Our holiday starts in Castelferretti, an unlikely destination near Falconara Marittima and Ancona. Castelferretti offers a reasonably priced b&b and Cantina Giusti which sells local wine and in particular Lacrima del Morro. We buy just a litre to see what it’s like and then 5 to last over the next couple of weeks.

Our first destination on Monday morning is Offagna. An easy drive through the quiet hills and countryside and equally easy parking. Offagna is Touring Club Bandiera Arancione and rightly so. A peaceful and historical village dominated by a castle and quiet streets to explore and admire the view of the surrounding countryside.

We stay for over an hour and then go to Osimo, which we visited by chance and rather quickly on our previous holiday in May. Osimo is a large town on the top of a hill and this time we get the parking right. There’s a multipiano carpark which costs 2 euros for the whole day at the bottom of the cable car which is free and takes us up to the historical centre, providing a good view on the way. We have another look at the cathedral and in particular the frescoes on the right side and another glimpse of the crypt. 

We also have a quick look inside the Basilica Conventuale di San Giuseppe da Copertino where there is the tomb of the local patron saint.

However, we are in search if lunch, not just of history and here we are not so lucky. Nothing which is open inspires but it is also getting late for lunch. After peering at a few menus we go back to the car and head in the direction of Ancona stopping at Gino Bar and Self service. Not a romantic destination but everything is clean and new and we eat some excellent spaghetti alle vongole followed  by a second dish, side, water, coffee etc for less than 30 euros for two people. We come out decidedly full.

We drive through the narrow streets of the old part of Ancona, thanking Google maps which helps us to avoid ZTL areas and park up at the cathedral of San Ciriaco. Here there are a limited number of parking spaces which are free for two hours. On a quiet September day, in the early afternoon, only a few are occupied, so we can park with a view from the industrial port below us where a cruise ship is being built up to the Mole Vanvitelliana and the coastline beyond.

The cathedral itself is an example of mixed Romanesque-Byzantine and Gothic elements, and stands on the site of the former acropolis of the Greek city. It is built in white stone from Mount Conero, preceded by a wide staircase and four columns and lions in Veronese red marble. The ogival dome is one of the most ancient in Italy.

Inside, the we stop to look at the 1189 balustrade of the Chapel of the Crucifix depicting Jeremiah and Habakkuk; the Eternal Father and the Blessed Virgin; an angel and Saint John the Evangelist; and Saint Cyriacus; two cranes on a pomegranate tree, an eagle, two peacocks on a tree and two gryphons. There are also two separate crypts. 

After visiting the church we walk down to the historical centre of Ancona, also taking the lift at the aptly named Palazzo degli Anziani. We just have two hours but it’s long enough to see the other main sights of the city. In particular the façade of the church Santa Maria della Piazza,

Piazza Plebiscito and Loggia dei Mercanti, as well as Chiesa San Francesco alle Scale.

  We take the longer way back up to the church for the view and then have a snack and a drink on a bench behind the church. We liked Ancona and perhaps will return for a longer visit although the church is probably the highlight. We drive back to Castelferretti. The traffic is slow and we are glad to be back to rest.