East Coast Sicily Day 20 - Plemmirio

The next morning after another spectacular sunrise we are back on public transport, this time to take bus number 23 to visit the Plemmirio area. We soon discover, thanks to the conversation between our fellow passengers and the driver that there is a problem with the bus route (!), a road somewhere seems to be officially closed and so some bus drivers go along it anyway (!) and others don't. Ours, today, apparently isn't going to. Much grumbling ensues from most of the ladies on the bus, many of whom are going to clean in villas in the area and now face a long walk to arrive at their destination, although others are already busy on the phone asking to be picked up. We decide to get off in the southern part of the reserve near 'Varco' (access to sea) 22 and walk along the road. This is ok (no stray dogs etc), although the road mostly goes through houses without much of a view towards the sea. Never mind, we soon arrive at the Capo Murro di Porco lighthouse where there are excellent views. After that, we find the path (from the lighthouse you have to walk back towards the road and the path is evident on your right) along the north coast of the headland.

 This part is spectacular, from the lighthouse to Varco 33 included we see no-one at all, and no rubbish either.... just beautiful landscapes, first of dwarf palms then gradually changing to heathers and herbs, 

panoramic views  of the sea and of Siracusa/Ortigia. The path threads along by the sea, sometimes close, sometimes further away, it's a track sometimes among the undergrowth and the rocks are often rough so it's advisable to wear good walking shoes or at least trainers, no open sandals or flipflops! 

We stop  to picnic at Varco 33 which has a mini beach (just for 2!) of sand. There are some rough steps in the rock to get down but you need to look around to find them. 

Between varco 33 and 34 the cliffs are tall and really spectacular. 

Varco 34 has ruined buildings and is apparently popular and in fact it was the only place we saw people, and a lot of rubbish....

It is still early so we decide to carry on along the road in the direction of Siracusa, it's a pleasant enough walk along the road through Lido Sacramento where there are fish farms, which are also restaurants, specializing in shell fish. We are also vaguely looking for a coffee to pass the time before we hope (!) to get the bus back to Siracusa, but there isn't really anywhere enticing so in the end we find another small beach and sit a while, there's a really good view of Ortigia and Siracusa. 

Given the last couple of days of unexpected problems with public transport we are a little anxious but the bus is remarkably in time and even though we are perhaps not in exactly the right place it stops for us.

We very much enjoyed our trip to Plemmirio and Capo Maddalena, beautiful landscapes and sea and unspoilt nature for most of the walk and just a short bus ride from Siracusa.

Reaching Plemmirio with public transport (updated October 2017) 

If the buses are running normally,  the number 23 bus stops not far from varco 34 where there is a shrine and a lot of rubbish bins. Otherwise buses 21 and 22 also go by just before Lido Sacramento you need to get off at the junction (as you turn inland from the coast and there are signs to Fontane Bianche etc) .