East Coast Sicily Day 18 Siracusa centre

The weather forecast isn't much better for the next day either but we decide it's time to venture out of Ortigia towards the centre of Siracusa, we also need money from a cashpoint and there's one of our bank in the centre. We set off, somewhat inadequately armed with our flimsy umbrella and the shoes which best resist the rain. We head down Corso Umberto I and then through the gardens on the right to Corso Gelone, the main shopping area. This is also the way to the Roman amphitheatre but we visited that on a previous visit and aren't interested in seeing it again. Instead, we keep right towards the modern church called Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime. I do wonder whether her tears were due to the ugliness of the church they built in her name......Even in a feeling-positive-about Siracusa vein it's difficult to see anything but ugly cement. Fortunately, just behind is the ruined church 

and Catacombs of San Giovanni which we were interested in visiting but are closed due to the bad weather and risk of flooding. Never mind, we are right in front of the bank and since dark clouds seem to be looming together with the occasional flash of lightning we decide to get out our money and head for home.

Too late, the heavens open to release a storm as bad as many we get in the Alps on a city totally unprepared for any more than a few millimetres of water. We huddle, together with other passers-by, under the largest balcony we can find and observe the lashing rain pouring not only from the sky but via the usual absurd guttering which releases its load directly onto the pavements like a fireman's hose turned in the wrong direction. The deluge quickly turns the pavements into streams and the main road into a several inch deep river. Some people have given up on not getting wet and are sloshing through it, a bad idea in my opinion, considering the lightning as well. The temperature drops by several degrees and we start to feel decidedly chilly. Eventually the rain starts to slow down and the pavements, at least, to clear. so we decide to make our way back to Ortigia. So, for the fourth day running we get back home pretty much soaked, especially as regards footwear. I resort to the hairdryer to dry out the least damp pair of shoes. 

Never mind, after lunch, miraculously, the sky starts to clear, the clouds decide to stop torturing Siracusa and by 3 o'clock we are out wandering a sun-warmed Ortigia which was already beautiful in the rain but doubly so in the sun. We walk back through the same streets we visited with cloud and appreciate the warm colours of the stone built houses and palazzi even more. It's too nice, of all a sudden, to stay in, so we wander around until sunset, spectacular. 

Immediately after the sunset we hurry to Piazza del Duomo where the twilight and the first lights coming on leave the already beautiful square suffused with a soft light  emphasizing the soft apricot colours and obliging us to stand and stare until it's almost dark. Magic.